No spark again

[makabart]

Just got the 1650 running for the first mow of the year, by replacing coil, condenser and points. I got it running pretty good and just finished the lawn and it died. Turns over just fine but again no spark at the plug or the points. I have replaced too many coils and condensers, of all makes quality Kholer parts to cheap ones at the parts place. What could be killing the coil and condensers? I also have the coil mounted away from the original location to reduce heat and vibration.

[cuber]

Check the wires that go to the coil and the wire that goes to the points, make sure that they are in good shape and not frayed and not rubbing on anything. You could of also gotten a bad coil....

[R Bedell]

Run a wire from the ( + ) positive Battery Terminal to the ( + ) Ignition Coil Terminal and see if it starts....let us know.

[makabart]

Could a solenoid going bad, now bad, cause any of these symptoms? I haven't tried to bypass yet since I just checked back and now the 1650 is tore into again.

[makabart]

Replaced solenoid, not the problem. Starter was ceased, replaced it (ouch). Next I replaced the ignition switch, rusted out. Now I'm back to square one with no spark. I had the new coil tested and it was bad, the parts place replaced for me. I replaced the condenser again as well. Still nothing.

[cubfixer]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

Run a wire from the ( + ) positive Battery Terminal to the ( + ) Ignition Coil Terminal and see if it starts....let us know.

Follow Roland's advice. If it turns over, it should start.

If it won't start, remove all wires from the voltage regulator (make sure that they are not touching anything!), then try to turn the motor over. It should turn over. Then run a jumper as per Roland from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. It should start.

If it doesn't, add starting fluid to the carb. Try again.

You have to have spark at the plug. Check that next. If no spark even with a jumper from the batt to the coil, then coil or points or condenser are the problem.

Let us know how it turns out.

[R Bedell]

IF....you have the correct Ignition Coil, the only thing that I can think of that would make one go bad is....OVER VOLTAGE. With the tractor running properly, you should have nothing greater than 13.7 VDC at the Ignition Coil.

[makabart]

I replaced the points this morning and got half the yard mowed then lost spark. I checked the wires and all seemed good. Its in time per static timing. Oh well.

[makabart]

Back to the Cubby. Tried to start it by connecting the coil to the battery (++), no go. When I removed the voltage regulator I saw that and it was filthy on the inside, cleaned it and put it back in. Getting better with a multimeter and found that coil was bad again, found an old one that measured 2.9 resistance put it in and then checked continuity throughout the system and found the new plug wire was bad and the old one was good but brittle, put that back in, got it to start. After it warmed up it started to chug a and die but would restart. I did some minor adjustments to the timing and finished the lawn before another week of rain. I just can't give up. I will check to VAC at the coil to see if its under 13.7. Thanks for the help.

[Cub Cadet 123]

I was going to recommend you check the ground on your points, but it sounds like you have solved your problem. Nonetheless, it might be good for you to clean up all of your grounds while you are at it.

Cub Cadet 123