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#1
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I've been trying to remove the front PTO clutch from the Kohler K301 on my 127. I've removed all of the setscrews (yes, even the setscrews under the setscrews) and I've been both spraying PB-Blaster and dripping ATF into the setscrew holes and around the crankshaft, and it still won't budge. Is there a bolt going into the end of the crankshaft holding the clutch on? I'm also unable to remove the clutch button (I thought they were just a press fit), so I can't see if there is a bolt or not. The service manual only mentions the setscrews, and makes no reference to a bolt. I've been using a prybar, prying the hub of the clutch against the block, but won't budge.
What's the trick to remove these clutches? |
#2
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I had a stubborn time with my 104... I had to get a torch and heat the clutch until all the grease was catching on fire and the main PTO housing was nice and red before it expanded enough to come off of the bearing after removing all 6 set screws... the bearing is locked in by a collar in there (at least it is on a 104) I also took a 2x4 and hit the PTO on the sides using a sledge hammer while rotating it. I have never been a fan of prying anything.
![]() Oh and if u choose the torch... you may want a fire extinguisher handy... There is a lot of grease that accumulates on the engine... Good tip!! Lol
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- Cory Sanderson -~~- Cub Cadet 104 -~~- Cub Cadet 104 -~~- Cub Original -~~- Cub Lo-Boy 154 -~~- |
#3
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Check out the 'PTO clutch puller' in the 'tools' section of my website. That and a slide hammer has always worked for me, even on the most rusted, stubborn clutches. I'm not a fan of heating stuff like that with torch. You won't be happy if you warp the clutch with the torch.
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#4
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Thank you, Gentlemen. I had briefly considered using heat, but since I can't easily direct the heat just to the clutch hub, I haven't tried it. Please explain in greater detail how the clutch button is removed. I've tried prying it off, but no luck. Matt, your puller seems like the way to go; I've got both the angle iron and a slide hammer needed for this. I won't be able to get to this again until the weekend, but I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks again. |
#5
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I've gotten mine off before with a hammer and a piece of wood- in this case it was a left over hammer handle, gently tapping and then rotating the engine, tapping again, etc.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#6
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#7
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If you read the service manual a little further, it'll tell you how to remove the center button in the clutch
![]() Hint: It doesn't come out until after the clutch is removed from the tractor... |
#8
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So one engine I have has the inner set screw with, as far as I can tell, the hex recess part of the fastener broken off flush.
Since I'm fresh out of right angle drill bits I'm at a loss as to what to do next (other than put it under the bench, which is where it is now) John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#9
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Hope this is coming along better.
I see you have a service manual, great. I have to mention that there are two set screws in each hole. I assume you knew that? These do come off hard sometimes seem to get rusted to the bearing outer race. A lot of them haven't been off in 20+ years. Blaster is good. I had a tough time with the last one I did and had to destroy it to get it off and then buy a good used clutch assembly Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
#10
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gentle tapping and leverage will pop it free..usually.,if you have all the allen screws out..thats it...stay with it...
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