From Deere to cub. Engine transplant

young enthusiest · #1 10-26-2009, 08:09 PM

Hey guys. Quick question. I have a k341aqs out of a jd316. I want to sell it to a guy with a 149. What all will I need to do so this engine will drop right in? Will the manual pto off the 149's moter (thrown rod) go on the 16? Thanks.

Mouse · #2 10-26-2009, 10:51 PM

No idea, are they even close? I know a lot of things where interchangeable back then but when it comes to the entire engine.... that might be a stretch.....LOL
Mouse

TEET · #3 10-26-2009, 11:14 PM

I think the oil pan is different as is the drive hub. The pto should fit ok, but I would double check the crankshaft length. Essentially the blocks are the same, but some swapping might need to be done to make it work. Does he have the original engine from the 149? I fit a k341 from a wheel horse into my 1211, but had to swap out the oil pan from the original M12 to the K341 to make it fit. good luck

Jeff (teet)

FFGino · #4 10-27-2009, 12:02 AM

The pans aren't always the same. However, some sheetmetal will have to be swapped, the electrical will have to be dealt with, either rewiring the 149 or changing everything from the bearing plate out, back to the 149's . Also the carb and related linkages are different. Either way it's a lot of dinking around but I've done it before. And depending on the type of exhaust elbow the 149 had, that will need to be addressed, also. I'm not familiar with the configuration of the 149 exhaust. It can be done, but it won't be a 10 min. job. Good luck.

Also, check the diameter and length of the PTO end of the cranks.

P.S. If you rewire the 149, you'll need the 5 post ignition switch from the quietline in order to turn on and off the charging system!

I just looked up the 149 exhaust at partstree.com, and it resembles the 10 & 12 horse style so a muffler from a 169 would bolt up to the AQS and would hang from the 149 heat shield.

RPalmer · #5 10-27-2009, 06:42 AM

Read this. http://cubfaq.com/blocks.html

jamesm · #6 10-27-2009, 08:33 AM

I recently used a 316 JD engine in a cub wide frame. You will have too cut or grind the mounting flanges off the block and the PTO end of the crank will probably be 1 1/8 ", the one I did was for a pulling tractor so PTO was not used. If you have the electric PTO for the JD it should be no problem.

truckntran · #7 10-27-2009, 02:47 PM

I took a JD engine which someone had in my 1250 ( And with the electric PTO it did work in a 1250) and installed it in my 122.. Had to change everything from the bearing plate out to use the starter generator type electircal system and install it between the frame rails.. but I never anticipated the PTO end of the crank being a diferent length.. At the moment it still has no PTO, and as its primary responsibility is pulling and pulling trailers, it isn't a problem. Next spring when I want to mow with it .....gonna have to deal with the crank.

young enthusiest · #8 10-28-2009, 02:28 AM

The pan is the same as a cub pan. Wiring, piece of cake. I'm not sure about the pto, but the Deere pulley is way to big. Throttle linkages and stuff are the exact same... This clould be easy. And the guy who is buyig it from me might pay $1000... I'll clear $940 on this investment... Yeah!

truckntran · #9 10-28-2009, 10:56 AM

Measure that crank..how far it protrudes from the side of the engine block, before you start counting your $$$$....

drysumpjet · #10 10-29-2009, 06:15 PM

I have had success with the conversion. Had to cut off the flanges as others had mentioned using a Stihl Cutqwik saw.

But mounting the electromagnet coil plate for the PTO was a challenge. The holes in the block did not match up for the mounting studs.

I had to drill & tap the block to make it work. Fortunately I discovered this while the block was bare, as it's best to use a drill press/milling machine to ensure straight holes, using the bearing plate mounting surface to "square" the block on the drill press table. The tap is course thread 7/16".

Note the block has "bosses" on the other side that will match the holes in the PTO plate, so, be sure when marking the block for drilling, the PTO plate is in the correct position to ensure drilling into the bosses, not into the thin part of the block!!!

Another reason not to attempt to drill on an assembled motor!!!

If you are using the mechanical PTO, and generator/starter not an issue EXCEPT for the hole for the generator/starter support strap. That might have to be drilled too! I understand some JD blocks have these holes, some do not. It's all worth checking before project commitment, Good Luck!