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Reload this Page QL axle pin or bolt better?
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  #1  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:44 PM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Default QL axle pin or bolt better?
Guys,


Do ppl just pull the frame back together with a bolt and then put in a new pin. Or can I just get a nice grade 8 bolt and shave the head down in the lathe and cut off excess threads. Was going to run it from the motor to the front.

If I do a bolt- any preferred way to do the grease groove?

Michael
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:55 PM
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Most bolts I have checked are undersize for this application.

Maybe it was just the cheap import bolts we get these days.

Also the surface finish on bolts are kind of rough.

The rough surface will wear away the hole in the axle.

How about modifying the bolt out of a Super!!??

It is made for this?
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2012, 09:42 AM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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I guess I could just make pin or bolt out of bar stock.

Just was thinking lowest cost and ease of manufacture.

Michael
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2012, 08:44 PM
dag1450 dag1450 is offline
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I have heard of people using front axle bolts from a super,grind the head down to clear the oil pan and they say it's a great fit ???
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2012, 09:22 PM
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Here is a pic of a Super bolt in a QL frame.



I was just test fitting, so the bolt is in backwards.

That is also a Super axle.

I got sidelined, it ain't finished yet.
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2012, 09:31 PM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Why are you putting the super axle under neath it? Super = 962 correct??

I mean, maybe I need to be hunting up some newer parts.. instead of repairing what I have?

Michael
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  #7  
Old 08-15-2012, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samiam44 View Post
Why are you putting the super axle under neath it? Super = 962 correct??

I mean, maybe I need to be hunting up some newer parts.. instead of repairing what I have?

Michael
I like the 1872 I have, so this build will get the 982 axle, we will see, if I ever get my shop organized again!!

Some of my Cubs are a little different!!



Can you spell radial tires!!??

I like trying something "new".
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2012, 06:18 PM
bkw3614 bkw3614 is offline
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I recently repaired the steering on my 1250 nightmare. The front axle was very loose in its carrier, so I squeezed the carrier together to remove the slack. I considered the bolt option too, I decided on a new pin and got a great fit, along with grease grooves that help distribute grease. I would strongly recommend the replacement pin. The Cub Cadet part number is IH-384626-R4.
Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2012, 12:44 AM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Yes,

I'm thinking- I got a good tractor. The axle is black and the end piece for the wheels are a grey/white. I'm guessing these are replacement parts. Maybe all I need to do is squeeze the frame back together.

Reading in the IH CC book, he says the QL's had replaceable bushings in the frame????

ISO mounts and the weld update, carborator kit, throttle shaft repair, etc.. It will be together in a few weeks... humm, unless tear into the motor=0)

Michael
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2012, 03:39 AM
bkw3614 bkw3614 is offline
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When I took apart the 1250 nightmare, I found one brass bushing in the axle, held in by the pivot pin. It was in pretty tough shape. I fount it to be rather easy to measure the axle with a caliper and then use a 3/4" fine thread bolt, about 6 1/2" long with washers and a nut to squeeze together the carrier to fit the axle. It took several tries and lots of measuring, but the bend went very well using the bold/nut combination with an 1 1/8" socket and an 18" breaker bar, along with a 1 1/8" box wrench. I did not need a cheater pipe, and the bolt turned quite easily. I also found that an oak block and a big hammer worked well for fine fitting of the axle into the carrier, along with a pinch bar for fine alignment. New tie rod ends for the drag link, and a rebuild of the steering sector helps as well. good luck
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