Sound investments in my CC 105

[MrChic]

Hi all. I have decided to keep my 105 and get her into good useable shape. She is running, I had her out last night for awhile. Some of the issues are:

Seat is shot, I have no Cub dealer local to me, would TSC be able to get me a modern MTD CC seat? I am looking for comfort over originality.

Steering is so sloppy. Do I rebuild my self, order the super steering upgrade from Guy Lauderback? Does anyone have experience with his various kits? He also has a completely rebuilt assembly available for like $165 (yikes).

Starting system needs work. Right now I start with a lead from the big terminal on the starter/gen to the positive on the battery. Lead gets pretty hot and sparks, I don't want to damage anything. Where do I start looking? Starter/gen test? Or is it the solenoid or something like that?

I have a chance to buy a backup carb for the K241 for $38. Is this a good investment? It has new gaskets and inlet needle, but there is some play in the bushings. It is local to me though.

I need a new clutch cable. This and the seatr and steering are first priority and the starting/charging system. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Ok last question. Does Tractor supply carry the maintenance parts? Air cleaner, filters, plugs, hy-tran, etc?

Thanks guys, keep on Cubbing.

[RPalmer]

MrChic,
Before you jump into the steering column check your tie rod ends and steering spindle.

You say your jumper lead is hot and sparking. If your jumper is a small gage it will get hot. And if there are sparks it's probably not secure. Do you have the key in the on or off position when you jump it?

I hope this helps.

[MrChic]

Yeah, it is a small guage lead. I keep it underv the seat. If I use a jumper cable, it doesn't get as hhot, but the sparks are bigger.

The steering wheel is pulled out of the column and wobbles like mad. I was actually going to do the tie rods as well. I am not restoring because it is my worker. I wanna get her reliable and performing well. I want to rebuild steering and just wondering the best way. The Guy Lauderback kit replaces some plastic parts with metal and I thought this would add strength/longevity. He has three kits available with various upgrades.

[jkier]

I slapped this TSC seat on my 127.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1

Had to make up some brackets for it but looks pretty stock and feels waaay better than what was on the tractor.

[RPalmer]

Here is a thread worth watching.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1270

[truckntran]

I took a seat off a busted MTD and used it on my 1250. I just cut two plates of 1/8 steel and drilled holes that matched the seat holes from the MTD. The plates act as a big washer and let ya attach the seat to the springs from the old one.. One on each side, going front to back, about 3 inches wide and 5 inches long... It still can adjust fore and aft, and it is very solid once bolted up. Sure beats having my rear end beat up by the no padding original.

Cob job, I know, but it works fine and if I ever find the right seat cover for the original seat I haven't destroyed anything.

You should be able to do someting similar for yours. And if teh padding is not too good on the new seat, one of those chair cushions that Walmart sells for a few bucks will also do the trick cheaply.

Unless you need the carb, I wouldn't bother buying it.. Even with considerable shaft play they will run fine, and there is an easy cure for the shaft play.. search for carb washer repair...

[ajgross]

A lot of times you reall ydon't need to do major work to your steering column to get a lot of the slop out. I would try to adjust it first and see hat ahppens. Or you might try to turn the cam follower 90 degrees and see if that helps. Those get flat spots on the sides of them and if you turn them, you can take some of the slop out of the steering. Now if the pivot bolt has a lot of play from the hole in the column being wallered ou, you can do what i did and take it to a maching shop and have bushing put in each side to take the slop out. You can buy bushings for a 982 column for $4.50 each (2 required) and have them inserted or you can has the machine shop put oillite bushings in it. You also might want to try to tighten up the big pug in the bottom of the column. There is a cotter pin that hods that in place and they break a lot and allow it to loosen up and cause a lot of play in the steering. So basically, try to adjust it and see where you are at before spending a bunch of money on it that you might not hve to do.

AJ

[truckntran]

Also if your front axle is moving when you steer you might need to look at the pivot pin and also see if your frame has spread...A new pin and squeezing the frame back to the right width with a bolt and nut is hopefully all you would need to fix that.

The steering gear is a very simple unit.. and there are several online how to's about it. I bought a new one for a Deere mower I had once and now that I see all that is in one I am a little greived over how much $$ I spent. If you can remove it from the tractor you are capable of rebuilding it yourself.

If you have a buddy with a drill press or lathe you can make a new top column bushing.. or you can buy the premade ones for more $$. the lower part of the column can be spread with a muffler expander tool so it fits into the box tightly.

Tie rod ends can be temporarily tightened up with a hammer gently applied to reshape the socket... but real ends are fairly cheap, as well as the really nice ball joint ends. Cheap guys like me use a hammer, and keep an eye on them.

Pulling the steering wheel is the hardest part of the job.

[MrChic]

Guys, thanks for all the info, I will try and take a good look this weekend. I did hear that a JD 110 had the same essential steering components as the my Cub, a Ross system or something.

[Yosemite Sam]

MrChic

You are correct, many JD parts for a Ross steering box are the same as a Cub Cadet and the JD dealer charges much less for them than the Cub dealer.