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#1
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I just picked up an 1811 guy didn't want it any more so he said take it away. I got it running no noises no smoke its a nice clean unit but the hydro is leaking out of the relief valves is it the valves or could it be as simple as a filter change?
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#2
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Valves have to either replaced or repaired. Reparing them isn't a job to take lightly.
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned |
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#3
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New/replacement valves are more accessible than ever. On ebay a vendor by the name of "Timarca" sells a new style of valve that is rebuildable by removing a C clip and swapping in the new O-rings.
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#4
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Thanks for the pointers guys.
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#5
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Another question about relief valves can you put manual valves instead of automatic valves in. What is the difference?
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#6
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Quote:
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#7
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Manual valves are shorter and have a small button in the center. On older manual valve Cubs, a lever is moved which depresses the buttons allowing the tractor to be pushed a short distance.
You can use newer automatic valves on older tractors, but I'm not sure you'd want to use the older manual valve on your newer Cub. You'd have to rig up a lever to hit the button tops. |
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#8
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Thanks Saturnv appreciate the info.
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#9
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Just a chance this will work, remove the valve press in on bottom with a nail or something to make sure it's not froze. Also spray good with carb cleaner, if the ball gets any grit or any dried oil on it the valve will not seal. Also make sure you bathe it in oil or hydro fluid etc.
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#10
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Thanks Clint tried that they were no good located some locally
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