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#1
06-29-2011, 10:46 PM
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122 Clutch/drive shaft
I was looking into my clutch issue today. I replaced a couple of missing engine mount bolts and the clutch is constantly engaged now. Anyhow, I looked down the open creeper control cutout (no creeper installed) at the drive shaft to see how tough it'll be to get the pins out for removal and I noticed the shaft appears to be seriously modified. I'm wondering if somewhere along its journey that there may have been a creeper installed (and since removed) and some PO has done a
 job modifying the shaft to get it running again. I shot a short video showing the mess and plan to upload it as soon as I can so you can all see what I'm dealing with. With the engine slid back into proper position, the shaft seems to be too long causing the drive plate bushing to ride against the flywheel which eliminates any effect of the clutch.Meanwhile, can anyone tell me the length of the clutch drive shaft without the creeper installed? I was intending to replace it and am worried it may need to be a custom length. I'll get the video up as quick as possible...
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Tim Proud to own a 1965 Cub Cadet 122. 
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#2
06-29-2011, 10:52 PM
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I have a list somewhere that gives the drive shaft lengths of each unit. But it is not no this PC. I will try to post the correct length tomorrow, but hopefully someone that knows the length will post quicker.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#3
06-29-2011, 11:17 PM
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The video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMysSjRwGuA
Here you go... I'm pretty sure this shaft has seen better days.
__________________
Tim Proud to own a 1965 Cub Cadet 122.
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#4
06-30-2011, 07:07 AM
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122 shaft
I saw on old post 18.19 in and yes I would say it is a mess
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Donny
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#6
06-30-2011, 01:55 PM
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Thanks heaps... I intend to rework the clutch assy and replace the shaft instead of buying the entire assy from the vendor. It'll be more within my current budget, I'm sitting home waiting for the Missouri river to back off a bit. The power plant I was at is currently inaccessible by road.
Next question... Is the cold-rolled steel rod found in the hardware store the correct size to accomodate the bushings, throw-out bearing and pressure plates without having to be turned for correct diameter?
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Tim Proud to own a 1965 Cub Cadet 122.
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#7
06-30-2011, 01:59 PM
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Your throwout bearing is at least hardened, and should have had the least wear. Take it with you when you go to get your 5/8 CRS. Use the bearing as a gage to make sure and save a trip anywhere else.
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104 to 127 conversion with dual 6x12s, hydraulics snow/dirt plow 1200 Quietline 44" mower QA-36 snow thrower
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#9
06-30-2011, 03:13 PM
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Cold Rolled 5/8 is a perfect replacement for your driveshaft. Is what I used for my 1250's shaft replacement.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#10
06-30-2011, 08:50 PM
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The results
Well, I got the engine out, turned the tractor up on end and took the clutch assy apart. Here's my idea of what happened to this poor old drive shaft...
 At some point, the shaft broke off at the roll pin and was also very badly worn by a previous throw-out bearing. So, the shaft was turned around backward, redrilled and installed using a large split coupling at the tranny end. The coupling was held tight on the shaft by hex-head screws, but was also held by roll pins to prevent the shaft from spinning in the coupling. The original coupling was slid onto the shaft for safe-keeping and held in place with a couple of smaller split couplings. I was certain the shaft was going to come out in pieces when i saw all the split couplings on it, but it didn't. I imagine this was just a temporary fix and the PO was intending to do it up right since the original coupling was safely attached. The final position of the shaft in the split coupling was such that it pinched the shaft between the tranny and the flywheel cup, forcing the shaft to constantly spin and the clutch to be ineffective. So the simple fix was to remove the engine mount bolts on one side to relieve the pressure on the shaft, allowing the clutch to work as it should.  Anyway, I'll need to make up a new shaft and I don't have much to go on for pin hole locations. This one looks like it went through a firing range, holes everywhere! If anyone has the specific hole dimensions for the shaft, I would appreciate the help. 
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Tim Proud to own a 1965 Cub Cadet 122.
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