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#1
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So I've been going thru the new-to-my 1650.... and today I thought I'd pick up some Hytran, filter, and new gasket. I noticed that one of the bolts that holds on the diff cover was actually a stud with a nut on it. Well I got the cover off and out gushed a bunch of 10w30 looking oil and then I noticed that to PO must have done something to crack the casting of the top-left hole. The casting is cracked at the inside and just the corner of the hole is missing. I don't think this would affect the gasket. The PO had installed a threaded stud and it appears most of the threads are still intact. Do you guys think I should remove the stud and inspect to determine a plan or would you just leave the stud in place? The PO had used a bunch of RTV but there is torn gasket there as well so I'm guessing they half-a$$'d it when they thought it'd be smart to replace the hytran with motor oil. Anyway, your advice would be great. Also... I picked up a 1450 because it has dual hydraulics that I was planning to pick parts from and then sell whatever is left. My 1650 is a 78 with internal brake and the 1450 is older with dual disks. I was planning to sell the rear end and ported hydro from the 1450 but now I'm wondering if I should swap assuming the 1450 is in good condition. Decisions..... ok, time to enjoy my Friday night. Cheers! Chris
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#2
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Oh crap.... I just realized the obvious..... that the Hytran will be able to leak out around the stud. Well I guess it might be a good thing that I picked up the 1450. Does anybody know of problems with swapping out a newer (internal brake) rear end with on older (disk brake) rear end??? Should I do a complete swap? What about the hydros? One newer one has the automatic relief valves.
Thanks, Chris |
#3
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The hydro pumps are a direct swap - you shouldn't have any problems switching between. I know that using motor oil when you should use hydraulic fluid is a big no-no. I would be skeptical about whether any damage occurred to the hydraulic pump. The swap-out should not be hard, I believe that all of the connections are the same. Should be 6 bolts, hydro linkage, and brake linkage, and you'll be done Nice find on the 1450 with dual hydros!
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics IH 982 Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind 50C Deck 42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade 41" IH Rear Blade QA42A Snowthrower |
#4
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You said it was the top left bolt right?
The Hytran doesn`t get that high.
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Jed Proud to be a FFA member Westmoreland,TN Chapter 1978 Cub cadet 1450 IH Hubcaps 1975 1650SGT Work In Progress 1974 cub cadet 129 with sleeve hitch/spring assist 1974 108 (Mint) #510358 brinly 12 in plow,disc,8 in plow ,2 42, 2 44A ,50A DECKS #40 boxblade,can`t keep up with the rest lol ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#5
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Yes, you should be fine... unless you roll the cub, in which case you'll have bigger problems!
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#6
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If it were me,I would not worry about hydro damage using non hytran oil.
They were put in many different brands of equipment and of course "their" oil was better than the other guys oil. We really don't know what type of Hyd oil was used. Here is an interesting read from the people that make Sundstrand hydros: http://www.cushmantrackster.com/pay-pdfs/sundstrand.pdf prolly' more here than you really want to know. |
#7
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Here's pictures of narrow frame gear drive and hydro covers |
#8
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That's a gear drive cover...the rear cover for a hydro has the fill hole up much higher, and it would get high enough to splash out of that bolt.
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#9
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#10
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Just use a sealing washer on the outside
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-se...ashers/=hsvtyz
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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