Brake pad replacement 1984 CCC 582

[cdlong]

What started this: my brakes seemed to be spongy, so I pulled the rear wheels to check them. I could rock both assemblies side to side a lot. Pads looked to be were worn, angled front to rear. After searching the internet and not finding actual pictures or measurements of the brake components to compare with mine, I decided to document what I did. There may be some disputes on the info here, but it’s what I used and it worked for me.
I'll break down what I did in several replies.I wasn't sure my 582 has the correct brake spring-Cub Cadet 732-3047 or brake rod-Cub Cadet 711-3143. I decided to make pads from 1/8” T x 2”W 6061 T6 aluminum flat bar from McMaster-Carr, based on wear of aluminum clutch discs I’ve used in pulling tractors.

1/8" X 2” 89015K231
$11.08

I disassembled the brakes and cleaned them with Dawn and a stainless steel brush. I didn’t see any excessive wear. Using a 1/8” drill bit, I drilled the rivets out and then scuffed the backing plates with a Dremel tool using a tapered grinding stone to obtain a rough surface for the J&B Weld.
I'll break down what I did in several replies to this thread. I referenced these:

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=14429

http://home.earthlink.net/~stanner42...rakeReline.pdf

I also referenced Brian Miller's "Putting the Brakes on a Cub Cadet" and Parts Tree "Cub Cadet 1604".

https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...garden-tractor

[cdlong]

I cut the aluminum flat bar into pads, using the original pads as a template, I used a Sharpie to outline the pads,, but the outlines need to be scribed. PB Blaster & WD-40 will remove the Sharpie lines. The Bosch blades, (blue pkg.), took 1 per pad. Definitely the wrong blades. I used PB Blaster to lubricate the blade. I cleaned the new pads with alcohol, then scuffed them with 80 grit paper. Tape over the rivet holes so adhesive doesn’t stick to the surface you clamp them on. I clamped the center first and then the ends because the pads will slide, (so pay close attention to alinement). I put a 500 watt halogen light on them due to the cold temps that were predicted. 12 hours later, they were good to go.

[cdlong]

After reassembly, I found that 1/8 inch wasn’t thick enough. The cam was traveling almost all the way forward and wasn’t releasing. I found I needed ¼ inch pads after I placed some of the material I cut off the pads into the calipers. The cam hardly moved forward before the brakes were applied. I glued another 1/8 pad inch on top. I purchased more jig saw blades from Harbor Freight. These gave a nice smooth cut. One blade cut 3 ½ pads before it broke. I used WD-40 instead of PB Blaster to lube the jig saw blades while cutting. WD-40 worked better than PB Blaster. They’re not pretty, but they work. First 3 pics are 1/8 inch pads, next 3 pics are 1/4 inch pads. I double checked my clutch alignment before adjusting the brakes. 6th pic is 1/4 inch pads with the brakes applied.

[FrankF3]

Nice Job! When I re-lined the brakes on one of my older machines, I took the calipers off and soaked the complete assemblies in Evapo-Rust Rust Remover. 24 hours later, I took them out, rinsed them off, and they look just as brand new as the date they came out of the factory. With the bonded linings my machine had. the rust dissolver even got the linings off of the pad backing plates.

[twoton]

Great write up there cdlong!

[cdlong]

Thank you FrankF3 & twoton. I've gotten so much from these forums over the years, I figured it was time to give back.

[Sam Mac]

I used the fire wrench to heat the backing plates on my 149. Then the brake material just fell off. Cut the new lining with the chop saw and some JB weld to glue the new stuff on.

[cdlong]

Nice Sam Mac. Thank you.

[ColoradoCadet]

I see I can order brake material from McMaster Carr, part number 6175K811. But what kind of aluminum are you guys cutting and using? I had no idea you could use aluminum as a friction material. Or am I reading this wrong (wouldn't be the first time for sure).