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Hello, My progress on rebuilding the K241 for my cub 108 is coming along at full turtle speed. Well, At least there is some progress. And, this is one of the first posts I have made since joining this website that isn't a shout out for help. So, I feel good about that. After cleaning the valve guide on the exhaust side both guides appear to be withing usable specs (measured with a mic).

Exhaust guide: mid-point between .312 and .313
Intake guide: mid-point between .312 and .313

(ol'George, you were right. The reamer did clean up a considerable amount of carbon. I'm sorry I didn't that a picture of the carbon on the end of the reamer to document)

Next is the cylinder bore (taken several times with my mic and telescoping gauge)

A axis top center and bottom: 3.252, 3.251, 3.251
B axis top center and bottom: 3.253, 3.252, 3.252

(I'm pretty sure that these measurements fall will within the max wear limit 3.2545, max out of round .005 and max allowable taper .0015)

Next, the crankpin. These measurements were very difficult to take

A axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499
B axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499

( I think I will be OK here too with a max out of round of .0005 and a max taper of .001)

Next, camshaft end play: .013 (taken with a feeler gauge)

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Using these measurements I plan to take the block to someone in town that I met who does small engine repairs. He has some hand tools to hone the cylinder wall with a new cross hatch and cut the valve seat to 45 degree angle. Then, I will re-measure the cylinder bore to see if it is still within specs. If all is good, I will the order new parts to put it back together.

- new exhaust and intake valves
- new STD piston, rings and connecting rod.
- shim kit for camshaft end play
- new governor gear

Also, the pully/PTO end of the crankshaft needs a new key path cut into it. I will have to have that done at a machine shop.

Hope this posting finds everyone well,

Ross