
04-17-2022, 11:35 PM
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Grand Member
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubDieselFan
Sounds like your stopping engine issue might be a linkage adjustment problem. In your 4th picture, look to the left of the fuel filter. The bottom cable is your throttle and the top is the stop cable. The cable on top might just need to be adjusted to pull back more on the lever.
Missing side panels makes me think he might have had some overheating issues. Maybe not, but makes me suspicious.
When you have the driveline apart, change the belt that drives the alternator and water pump.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll check out those linkages tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1711Cub
First off, congrats! These are a marvelous machine.
At minimum, make sure your oil pressure warning lamp is operational, and optimally add a gauge in place of the hour meter, which can be moved under the hood. I just picked up my first diesel, a 1984 782D, and the light was disconnected a long time ago based upon the condition of the electrical tape used to cover the connection. Upon hooking it up, the oil light stays on until half throttle then goes out. I haven't had a chance to hook up a gauge to see if there is an actual pressure deficiency, or if it's a bad switch.
Also, be aware these are hard on the stock driveshaft. I have already sheared off a spirol pin on the engine end of the driveshaft. Many have encouraged a switch to the CV style shaft used on the later Cyclops or 2000/3000 series.
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Thanks. The oil pressure light comes on when the key is turned on, goes off when it’s running. Good idea to add a gauge. I already plan on checking the driveshaft, I’ll look into the CV style upgrade.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub
38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart
    
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