Quote:
Originally Posted by ICOM 756
yep knock the bottom out a lil so the bowl bolt has lil more to push up the bowl..
didnt even think of that.. ok folks we need to find a way to hook ol geo up to a hard drive to save all the info in his noggin
i can say this. old choke shafts are not nice lol.. i went slow and tight loose tight loose and the choke plate lil screws still snaped grrrr....
why u ask was i messing with it... was goin to swap shafts to the aftermarket as the aftermarket is backwards grrrr lol
the choke arm is toward motor. stock or factory is towards air cleaner.
so ill cut off the ear and give a tac weld.
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Choke/throttle shafts:
Make sure you file/grind the end of the screws to remove the bradding/upsetting/peening of the threads FIRST
Ok, so now I tell you
I prefer to silver solder a small metal piece to the shaft push/pull rather than tack weld. either works if yer good at welding thin material.
Also if the choke cable can be rerouted(long enough) so it can come from a 180* direction to pull the choke,--- that works well and no messing with the shaft if it can be done, as some situations don't allow rerouting as things are in the way or ascetics (looks like shit)
I find it better to make a new tab and weld it to the one peened on the shaft than to disturb the peened one, as less chance of screwing things up.
-----Just some experience shared.
FYI:
Some aftermarket carbs on Evil pray were offering a option of choke and throttle, push/pull actuating tang placement, to eliminate custom fitting.