Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G.
No. He needs to download the service manual from the Tech Library and read up on the operational neutral adjust procedure.
Cub Cadet 123-
Basically, you need to remove the tunnel cover on the 149 and loosen the two bolts that hold the cam linkage bracket to the pump. The holes are slotted so the plate can be moved up and down. Move it all the way up, and tighten one of the bolts slightly so it can't move on its own. Put the tractor on jackstands so the rear wheels are in the air, and then start the tractor and put the lever in neutral. The wheels will probably be spinning. Using a hammer and brass rod, very carefully (stay far away from the cooling fan) tap the cam linkage bracket down until the wheels stop spinning. Shut off the tractor, tighten the bolts, and put the tunnel cover back on, and you're all set.
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I know I'm resurrecting a really old thread here, but I'm just confused by Matt's advice compared to what is stated in the manual, since the instructions never mention about putting the shift back in N until step 8. First it says to put it in F, then start the engine and adjust the cam bracket downward (from the topmost position) until the wheels stop turning. Then, again, says to put the lever in F, press the brake pedal and lock in place (so at that point the lever would be in N). Then, says to put the lever in F again and tighten the capscrews.
What Matt suggests - that of going in N right away and simply adjusting the cam down until the wheels stops - sounds like an easier way. Why start the process with the shift in F?
Any advice on it? I started up my rebuilt engine for the first time today and noticed that, even though when pressing the brake pedal the shift goes to N, tractor creeps forward unless I have the shift lever slightly to the right of N (towards R). Assuming I need to adjust the cam bracket.