Wanted to post the results of the 30 year inspection.
The rubber engine mounts were long gone and had wore divots in the two engine cradle bars. I welded up the divots and surfaced the bars flat. I also did the cradle mod as recommended. The aluminum oil pan was damaged where it was supported on the engine cradles so I bought a used cast iron oil pan. I bought new Cub Cadet ($) rubber mounts. I set the mounts in place and then with the oil pan off the engine I was able to make sure the oil pan sat on the cradle without rocking. I ended up installing one 0.025 inch shim between the oil pan and the cradle which made the oil pan solid to the cradle. With the oil pan off the engine it is a good time to make sure one can install the bolting for the new rubber mounts and bolt the oil pan to the cradles. Better to find out something does not align now rather then when you are installing the engine to the cradle.
I had an engine oil leak which turned out to be the large brass nut which screws into the engine block for the governor arm. This nut was loose.
Per one of your recommendations I pulled the flywheel and cleaned out the stator. Removed much accumulated dirt from the stator.
I did not pull the head as I had no indications of a head gasket leak and I did not want to jinx anything. This engine has been very good to me for 30 years. It is used to blow snow and is an easy starter even when the temperature is 10 to 15 below zero.
Ended up doing a lot of repairs to the tin work and the aluminum exhaust duct. Also fabricated and installed the muffler support bracket modification.
With the above items completed the tractor runs great. There is a good bit of vibration at idle speed but it really smooths out at full speed. I'm happy I went with the rubber engine mounts.
Thanks for the helpful recommendations. I know everybody here loves pictures so here you go. One is the tractor ready for snow duty and the other is the view of the engine cradle modification. No comments on weld quality please.
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