Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dark Side of Will
I'll take it under advisement.
My prior experience with converting small engines to electronic ignition includes a Tecumseh that was a SOB to start. I always took multiple priming cycles and several pulls. I replaced the original system with an electronic ignition utilizing the original flying magnet trigger. It started, first pull, EVERY TIME.
I have similar experience converting cars to EFI... Electronics are ALWAYS more reliable.
The reason the points only last 40 years with the original ignition is that they have to pass >2 Amps of coil current. The electronic ignition is nothing but a solid state relay that reduces coil current to ~50 mA. Points will absolutely last forever with that current. Done.
If there were an EFI kit for these engines, I'd probably buy it.
From here: http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines...df/tp_2379.pdf
Downloaded. Will review
I'll review the manual and have another look.
I played with the mixture screws today. The previous owner may have been tuning it to start in winter in order to use the snow plow. I leaned each mixture screw a full turn and it's much more tractable now, thought still not where it should be. I have not yet undertaken a factory mixture setting procedure, but will.
That's going to be fun. I've helicoiled plenty of parts to date. :-/
I can see the engine dancing around on the "cradle" plates. Yes, it will need a day of work to be right again. Sigh. |
Do as you please as far as far as the 'lectronic trigger,if 40 some years is not considered a long time, have at it son.
I have engines running here that were made in the mid 50's and never had the points changed.
Oldest running engine I have around here is a 1915 Continental that came out of a Saxon model B roadster
Your money your tractor.
Different strokes, different folks.
These old engines sure as hell don't need EFI.
We would still be using carbs, except the epa rules ran them out of town.
Ain't nuttin simpler than the venturi principal in a carb.
These old flatheads are only running 6 1/2 to 1 compression on a good day.
As far as helicoil, it's a good repair if done right and you put the pan on a mill so all surfaces are flat, true and parallel.
'course the first time you remove the bolts, out comes the helicoil.
When you are all done a $35-45 dollar cast iron pan on evilpay is a good deal.
That pan takes a hell of a lot of vibration from a single piston the size of a SBC chevvy pounding up/down.
I know a heli is posta be stronger than a thread, but real world isn't as rosy a picture.
Timeserts are better @ staying put, or go to 7/16-20
As far as a tejunkski 'injin, yep them magneto's need spun a little faster to produce spark.
Those newer flywheel 'electronic triggers are nice when they are working, but that is the key word, "working"
Now when the points are buried under the flywheel, triggers are a nicer deal,
Till you have to replace them, then shell out big $$$$$$
A little ribbon of crocus cloth goes a long way removing oxidation on points.
Have fun and, welcome to the madness.