As long as you put new OEM engine mounts back in and do the cradle mod, the stock clutch parts will be fine.
You do not need a new driveshaft to install the creeper...all you have to do it cut it at the score mark if it's an OEM driveshaft. However, I'm going to guess that the driveshaft probably has enough wear on it to justify replacing it, so just make a new one with the holes in the same place as the old one, and cut it to the length to the score mark on the old driveshaft. Go to the tech library and find the link to the online parts lookup, and then you can print off the exploded view of the clutch. In addition to what you've mentioned, I would replace the teaser spring, friction disc, have the pressure plates resurfaced on a lathe, get a new main spring (stock is fine for a stock 12 hp engine) and all new spirol pins and rubber discs for the rear coupler. The coupler itself also needs replacing if it wobbles on the input shaft of the trans.
A stronger clutch spring and a creeper aren't going to play nice. The bearing in the creeper is just an ordinary ball bearing, not an angular contact or thrust bearing, so every time you put the clutch in, you are applying an axial force to the bearing that it is not designed to withstand. This is one weak point in the creepers, and why the bearing in a used one is always so loose. Someday I'm going to try to modify one of my creepers to use an angular contact bearing so I can use it in my 582 with 800#/in. clutch spring.
Lastly, if you don't actually need the creeper for throwing snow or tilling, I wouldn't bother installing it. It's just one more thing to keep an eye on and leak oil all over the floor.
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