Quote:
Originally Posted by powerpooch
I don't know if this event caused the amp meter to become uncalibrated, or if maybe I did something when I was struggling to remove the tiny bolt on the back of the meter. I just know that when I started my project, it was reading normal, and that when I finished, it is always reading high.
Is there any sort of adjustments for this amp meter? Or maybe cause a similar short with the amp meter hooked up backwards. (joking about that, but actually wondering if it would work).
Everything else has been great besides the amp meter. Limited test of the lights because the muffler is broken, so I am going to fix that before using the 1250 too much.
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Inside of every amp meter there is a built in resistance called a shunt. The shunt is there to protect the meter movement circuitry by dividing the current flow so that not all the current goes through the meter winding. It is a parallel resistance circuit.
Most likely you have fried that shunt. The meter is reading high because now 100% of the current is going through the winding. It may work that way forever or eventually the winding may burn out too, and if/when that happens your tractor will not start because the battery circuit to the key switch is open.
At that point you can jumper a wire across the two lugs of the amp meter (of course the meter won't work but tractor will run) or you can put a new meter in.