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Old 01-03-2018, 06:41 PM
Slycox Slycox is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
Forget about the coil for a while. Thats a low probability failure mode.

Does the tractor turn over with a set of jumper cables on the battery? If so, go back to my step by step instructions and follow them, 1,2,3, etc. If you don't have a carb kit, just take it off, take it apart and clean it good, then put it back together with existing gaskets. That's good enough to get it running. You don't NEED a kit. (buy them online, I use ccspecialties.org) but there are others.

Charge or replace the battery. If it still will not crank over using the ignition switch with a new battery, then the next things to cause failure to crank will be the safety switches on the clutch/brake and be sure the PTO is "off." Find the clutch/brake switch underneath and jumper it or test it for continuity. It either needs to be bypassed or operable to get the starter to crank.

If you bypass the safety switch and it still won't crank, but will when the starter is jumped directly, then suspect the solenoid. It's under the dash. Remove the fuel tank to reach it.

Use a large screwdriver to jump (short out) the two large screws on the top of the relay/solenoid. ("sparks is good") The engine should crank regardless of safety switches. But it won't run unless the ignition is on and safety switches are operable or bypassed.

As for constant power to lights, I've seen tractors wired both ways, lights always live, and lights only when ignition is turned on.

Ignition switch failure is another low probability event but you can check it quickly...

If the ignition switch is "always on" you'll run the battery down rather quickly through the coil, which will get pretty warm. if the battery is holding a charge, then that is not happening, so I would just say your tractor is wired with the lights live at all times. No big deal. You can check the switch by checking voltage from the + terminal to a ground with the switch in "off" and again in "run." Should be +12V with the switch in "run" but zero volts with it off.

Be sure your volt meter is set to DC volts and not AC volts when you use it.

Again, not a likely failure, so go back to the instructions

Thanks for the detailed description. It would not crank with my charger in jump mode. I will work on testing/bypassing the switches when I get out there.
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