Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac
You do not need to remove the radiator, I use an allen wrench that fits on a 3/8" drive long extension. Then you can remove the 4 socket head bolts from under the dash tower. You may as well do the cork gasket at the same time. Personally I'd pull the whole rear and pump to do it. While you have the rear out pop the axle tubes, drill the oil drain holes in the case, replace the axle gaskets and be done with it. Oh yeah and put a set of Xtreme SGTrear end braces on it.
Links to threads I've done over the years.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244 |
Thanks Sam! I am going to try and remove the pump to do the cork gasket replacement. If I had time I would remove the rearend and do all you mention but I will have about 6 hours without the little ones tomorrow and am going to try and focus on the driveshaft and that cork gasket.
Question, my plan is to remove the driveshaft first. So, are you saying that I should remove the 4 sockethead bolts near the front that connect the drive coupling to the engine, then remove the rear 4 bolts that connect the rear coupling to the hydrostatic pump, and the drive shaft should then slide out? It does look like a tight squeeze if I don't remove the radiator first so I just want to double check first. Also, do I need to remove the rear fenders to do this and the cork gasket replacement or will removing the tunnel cover suffice? Am just trying to figure out how the driveshaft will pull out.
Thanks!