[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

It's 3 pieces, I assumed there were metal plates on the outside, with the clutch in the middle, but perhaps not. Or do you mean the friction plate itself is laminated? I'm not sure what you mean by driver. But when I pull everything out I'll post close up pics.

The friction plate itself. The original in mine had a steel plate in the center and had friction material bonded to either side. Sadly mine delaminated so I replaced it. The thickness was acceptable but it was falling apart

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Not what I want to hear when I buy a used tractor... at least the engine fires right up and runs smooth when the clutch is released. So I know the issue is the driveline.

I'm glad to hear yours runs great. That will save you some money when you get around to a proper overhaul. Mine runs well but smokes when I start it. A rebuild is in it's future but right now there are bigger fish to fry...

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

If I need a new driveshaft, Jeff in PA is getting my business. I'm very impressed with what he's posted. I'm hoping that between the old one and the "new" one I'm getting, one will be good.

I hope you get a decent driveline but bear in mind the original parts are approaching 40 years old. I bought my shaft from Jeff and based on what I recieved I have no reservations recommending his products.

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Thanks, and I hope I get it up sooner than later too

Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately I am working on this in my backyard, so pulling an engine would be tricky. The current ISO mounts look ok. I intend on replacing the mounts with solid ones eventually, but right now I don't really have the time or resources to do it. If the current set up is wrong (i.e. narrow frame parts) I'm going to swap in the right parts from the driveline I bought.

The first time I pulled the engines from my tractors I removed the lower grille and hood as an assembly and picked the engine off the frame - no hoist. They are a little over 100lb which isn't bad for me. Then again I lift weights almost every day.

If you have questions about what parts are correct post pictures to this thread. I am happy to help and I'm sure others here are too

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

I have all the parts ready to order from the throwout bearing to the cheater spring, just going to wait for the driveline to make sure nothing else is missing. Depending on how hard it is to remove, I may or may not replace the clutch. I don't want to put a new clutch in without at least resurfacing the plates, and I'd rather avoid that cost + the clutch. The current rag joint looks ok, but for the price I suppose I should just order a new one since I'll have everything else out.

If you are trying to get the tractor "on the road" so you can use it keep in mind that your may wind up redoing some of the work later. I got mine to a point where I could use it and ended up completely rebuilding the clutch because it wasn't functioning properly and it was really noisy because of worn parts. It served me well before but after rebuilding it I am very happy with the results.

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Once we build next year, I'll have a garage, so my winter 2017/18 project is going to be to do a full proper overhaul, including solid mounts. For now I just want to get everything fixed properly. I'm ok using some used parts and replacing them later, so long as they are the right used parts and won't cause failure to other new parts (if that makes sense). I can't see a used clutch damaging anything other than the current clutch and possibly the plates, which will need resurfaced anyway. However, I'd hate to use a bad throwout bearing and damage the rest of the parts i replace.

The driver is the plate that bolts to the back of the engine. It has three pins sticking out the back that engage the clurch plate. The QL driver plate has a flexible spring-steel plate that is riveted to a thicker steel disc. The center is the thin spring-steel and that part bolts to the engine. The reason they did this is the ISO mounts allow the engine to move. The spring-steel driver plate will flex with the engine.

You have a solid driver plate. It may put stress on the drive line or other parts. You may want to swap over to solid mounts of you keep that drive plate.

Another thing you should look into is the QL cradle mod. The original design was prone to the bolts loosening and the engine sagging in the cradle. The QL pans are aluminum so loose bolts led to stripped holes. Many swap an older cast-iron pan after doing the cradle mod. I installed helicoils and kept the original pans. Either way weld a strip of steel on the cradle and most of the problem will go away.

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Short term this thing is really only going to mow grass a pull a trailer occasionally. Down the road I hope to find a few attachments and put it to use.

This is how it starts. You'll find a tiller and a snowblower and a plow and you'll wonder how you ever lived without them. Then you'll want a second tractor so you don't have to waste valuable time changing attachments. Before you know it you'll build a building that is bigger than you'll ever need to store tractors and it will be full. Ask me how I know.

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Thanks again for the help!

Anytime. Post questions as they come.