Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange
Lastly before I finish this book for the night: the front end needs to be aligned. Serious toe-in (I think that would be the term). Recommendations on this procedure?
Ken
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The positive camber is normal, intentional and helps with steering. No adjustment needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange
Hydrolics: it has a Cub Cadet OEM filter on the pump. Do they still make those filters? I'll look around. I'd like to change out the fluid as soon as possible. What is the best/right fluid? I also need recommendations on this procedure. If there is a bleed order or specific procedure I'd appreciate the advice. I figure since I have to do major dismantling to get the lift lever reattached I might as well do the fluid change at the same time.
Ken
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Cub Cadet recommends Hytran
hydraulic fluid. To replace the fluid, unbolt the plate off the rear end, but do not take the bolts all the way out. Tap the plate gently to break the gasket seal. Oil will start pouring out, make sure you have a big enough oil pan to catch all 7-8 quarts of it. Once all the oil has drained, take the rear plate off and clean all the gunk inside. Take a minute to marvel at how well built the differential is. Clean the plate of gasket residue, also the rear end, scrape everything off real well. Reinstall the plate with a fresh gasket. This is also a good time to change the filter, check the Technical Library for which filter to use. Once the filter is changed and rear plate bolted back on,remove the fill plug and fill the rear with fresh oil until it reaches the level of the fill plug. Done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange
The floorboards are in rough shape, lots of rust holes on the edges closest to the frame on both sides. I'm not a welder, have no equipment. The only thing I can think of is to replace the floorboards which appears to mean I have to replace the fenders as well since they are a unit. Is there a mod out there somewhere to perhaps cut the floorboards and attach a replacement plate or something?
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Keen an eye on Craigslist, you can sometimes find the whole fender assembly. There's supposed to be
foot rests that go on top to protect the fender foot rest area. If not, Harbor Freight sells a 120V flux core welder that will do the job.
If you're taking the thing apart, you should look into the condition of the rubber motor mounts. They probably need to be replaced. Other things to look at replacing are the rag joints on the driveshaft and the joints on the steering rods, after 40 years of use it may be a good idea to replace them for safety reasons.