You know there are two set screws in each hole, right? one on top of the other. Assuming you get all six out, here's what I do. I take about a 2 foot piece of 1x2 (hardwood like maple or cherry if you can get it). Then use that like a drift to "knock" the clutch off. Put one end in the pulley groove, find a direction (I usually work from the governor side) and lay the stick back against the block as far as you can. Then tap the end of the stick to drive the pulley (and clutch) off the bearing. Tap, rotate, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, tap a little harder if you have to...etc. until it come off. You are using the stick and a hammer to drive the clutch off, if that all makes sense.
Then you will need to remove the bearing....remove setscrews from the black eccentric locking collar behind the bearing, then using a punch, knock the black ring counter clockwise to loosen it. (usually it's counter clockwise, I had one that was the other way). Once the locking ring is loose, use a gear puller to pull the bearing off the shaft. the locking ring will come right off as well.
Removing the clutch basket is a challenge. Remove the set screws, then, with a helper, using two long (3-4') wrecking bars/crow bars, get behind the basket as close to the shaft as you can, from opposite sides, and pry the basket off the shaft. Use heat on the basket if you have to. I've had to mount the block in a big woodworking vise or set in on a very sturdy workbench, and with the help of another person, both of us putting our considerable weight on the pry bars, to pop the basket loose.
heat, a few hammer taps to the hub, and lots of penetrating oil can help.
Good luck!
PS, there is a good utube video that you might want to look at. search for cub cadet pto removal.
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