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Originally Posted by Maxwelhse
but I'm going to debate the manual here a little.
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1.) I've been wrenching long time and if someone said that to me I would want some pretty stiff arguing followed by multiple examples of why they want to defer from the very thing that the designers wanted. It would have to be based on more than a few hours of testing on one machine, or a "feeling" that it was wrong.
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Originally Posted by Maxwelhse
HyTran, despite all its miraculous accomplishments and legendary following appears in "eyeball" viscosity to be very similar to Dextron-3 ATF
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2.) Yes, Hy-Tran and DexIII is almost the same fluid. Near as I can tell the only difference is that Hy-Tran can "absorb" the water and DexIII does not. This being based on the fact that in International's heavy machines I.E. a 530 Payloader, it states that either Hy-Tran or DexIII can be used in the torque converter drive. I'm sure I can find other machines of IH origin that have the same recommendation, but that one is fresh on my mind because I just worked on one. Based on that, I would say the two fluids are interchangeable.
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Originally Posted by Maxwelhse
which is very much different than 30W motor oil...
I realize that no one can get in their time machine and roll back to the 1960s and ask the IH engineer what their design intent was, but those two options sure don't seem like straight forward substitutes.
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3.) If you have ever worked on hydraulic systems, or fluid drives, you would know that 30WT oil is very commonly a substitute for a hydraulic oil. Most often, it is recommended when the ambient temp is high. You would "think" that the two fluids are very different, when in reality they are not. Hydraulic oils range in viscosity just like motor oils. SAE 30 is not that much heavier than a typical hydraulic oil (On average hydraulic oil is a SAE20- SAE-30)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse
Given my limited exposure to creepers (an entire experience of a single creeper pulled from a 1200 that appeared to have gear oil in it, right or wrong, when I drained it), in addition to my professional background on the topic, I'd run gear oil in it, change it at ~50 hours or annually (which ever comes first) and sleep well with that maintenance routine. For most of us 1 change a year is more like 20 hours... I'd bet you $50 that low grade olive oil would work with that maintenance cycle for at least the next 20 years (creepers cost $150+, so one of us is losing that bet no matter what).
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4.) I think this part is interesting. "Given my limited exposure to creepers" ..... How then do you justify making a recommendation like that if you admit you basically know nothing about them? I'm not totally sure what your "professional background" all entails but from that comment I would say it definitely isn't tearing machines down all day. I'm sure you weren't soliciting opinions either but to make such a bold statement on using olive oil in these machines should come with more than just a "I think it would be OK". As far as the last part goes with the $50 bet, and the cost of the creeper, if he does go ahead and do it are you going to buy him a new creeper if it fails on olive oil?
Now, maybe I'm going overboard here, but if you are going to blatantly disregard the recommendations of the service manual, maybe you should test it on your own machine before spouting off that it can be done. I may not always "go by the book" but when I don't I'll pay for it if I'm wrong. Unless I know from more than one experience that it will work, I definitely don't recommend it to other people.