Quote:
by cmatthew
measurements of bore from top to bottom one way then the other.
3.374-3.372-3.370
3.373-3.374-3.373
top mid bottom
crank- 1.499 and 1.498
the manual says everything should be in good specs. right?
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This information is from a Kohler service manual.
Cylinder Bore:
New cylinder bore is 3.3755/3.3745
Maximum cylinder wear is 3.378
Maximum out of round is .003
Maximum taper is .002
Crankshaft: (crankpin should be check in 6 places)
Crankpin diameter new is 1.500/1.4995
Maximum wear limit is 1.4990
Maximum out of round is .0005
Maximum taper is .001
Is the engine a K301?
What gages did you use to measure cylinder?
If the engine is a K301 the measurements should be the same or more than the new engine specs.
There is .004 difference in your cylinder bore measurements. That tells me the cylinder needs bored at least .010.
Minimum crankpin diameter is 1.4990. One of your crankpin measurements is 1.498. The crankpin needs undersize .010.
The picture of your piston indicates the piston is burnt in the exhaust valve area.
The picture of connecting rod (Inside diameter where the crankshaft and connecting rod meet has a shinny area in the middle. I would like to see a picture of the crankpin journal.
If I was rebuilding this engine I would do or recomend the following:
1. Bore engine at least .010.
2. Undersize crankpin .010 and a use connecting rod for a .010 under crank.
3. New governor (if yours is plastic)
4. New head bolts.
5. New bearing plate bolts.
6. New push rod pin (old one is usually aluminum-can be mushroom out)
7. Check valve guides-replace as needed.
8. Check head for flatness-rework as needed.
9. Check the top of the block for flatness-rework as needed.
This engine/Cub Cadet lasted roughly 45 years with no internal work done to the engine. You will be better off in the long run rebuilding the engine the right way. Some will say you can get by just reringing the engine. That may last a few years before it starts smoking again or worse yet rod flys apart.
It's your Cub Cadet...your choice