Matt G wrote an tutorial on how to Statically set your points gap using a multimeter - however I was having trouble using this method with a digital unit so I came up with an alternative method.
I was having a hard time understanding if I needed to increase or decrease the gap at TDC to make sure the points broke at 20 deg BTDC as the .020 gap that's recommended by Kohler for initial adjustment was yielding an approximate 40 deg BTDC spark which was making the ol' girl impossibly hard to start.
Knowing that a small gap at 20 deg BTDC is what causes the spark I used a .0015 feeler gauge to establish a starting point at the "S" mark. The engine was then rotated (CCW from PTO end) in its normal direction back to TDC "T" and the gap was checked here which was approximately .015 signifying that the wear in the adjoining parts caused a reduction in the initial point gap at "T".
However as I noted before the .0015 "air gap" is not ideal. Therefore the engine was rotated by hand through a few more revolutions to establish the timing which was approximately 23-24 deg so the TDC gap was decreased .001 at a time until I settled on .013 gap which netted a spark precisely at the "S" mark or 20 deg BTDC as Kohler recommends.
It should be noted that you do not want to rotate the engine back and forth as this will not give you a repeatable reading due to the backlash in the cam gear. You should always rotate the engine in the normal operating direction and do NOT reverse the direction when making incremental changes.
Also if you have speakers in your garage that you can power on without music the spark will often times cause an electronic disturbance that can be heard if you are having a hard time seeing the spark in normally lit conditions.
This is an excellent example of what Matt was originally talking about in the sense that a .020 point gap is not perfect or may not even be usable in extreme cases.
I hope that this helps someone along the way
