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Are Head bolts put in dry?
K302, cub 124.
Are the head bolts put in dry, or do I use latex, or copper never-seize? |
I put them in dry. Run a tap in the block and blow out chips first to clean the threads good. You will always get something out of the holes. Most of the time it comes out with the tap, stuck in greasy filth. :beerchug:
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Oil or anti-seize. Since removing a very stuck broken head bolt, I never put them in dry.
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wet
I am with Matt, I use a little anti-seize, the gray one. I put them in, run it for 10 min at different speeds, let cool and retorque. after i run it for like an hour or so, sometimes i retorque them again.
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This is an excerpt from a text book, the best small engine repair book that I have found, it is used in many small engine repair schools, Community college courses, and highly rated by many certified small engine technicians.
The book is Small Engine Technology by William A. Schuster. From Chapter 8, Engine Assembly Lubricate head bolts with "antiseize" The head bolts should be lubricated not only on the threads, but more importantly on the under-surface of the bolt head. The bolts, when torqued to the proper value, will not loosen because of the oiling, which will keep the fasteners from rusting and seizing in the engine. |
I always put some anti-seize on them and if you want to go the cheap and dual use route use milk of magnesia, it works for jet engine in high temp areas like the combustion area and it will work for your head bolts plus you can use it for other ailments too.
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That's what I thought, but this is my first time with a kohler.
Thanks. |
Not that I have had any problems with my way, but guess Ill get some antiseize and do it like the pros.
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