Cub 149 Resto-mod
 

I am going to try out having a build thread on my 149, I am calling it a resto-mod since I am restoring it and modifying it at the same time. It will basically be a restored 149 which I am going to change to red in color, install an older set of narrow front wheels, and running tri ribs up front, and ags in the back.

I have bought this tractor after the first of the year, was looking for a 149, 169, 1450, and 1650....this just happens to be what I wound up with that met my purchase criteria....was wanting a hydrostat with hydrallic lift. I had a cub 102 about 15 years ago that I restored and have missed so I decided now was a good as time as any to jump back in with both feet!

Anyhow, here is the beginning of my build thread, I have been buying parts ever since I got the tractor, purchasing things I know that it needed and things I wanted. I will go into that later. Today I began disassembly, attached are a few pics of what it looked like before I started!

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In the next segment, will show the progress I made.

Wow, looks to be in really good condition. I'm anxious to see the progression of your resto-mod. Thanks for sharing!

disassembly
 

Here are the pics of what I did today.

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The carb is now residing the the chem-dip bucket and you can see the pto shaft of the engine has issues, hopefully I can have a new keyway cut 180 degrees from the old worn one.

I will try to get better pics as I go along, I always forget to take my digital camera with me and result to using the iPhone for pics. I had taken some pics of the carb issues I ran into (twisted off both the choke butterfly screws) but turned out too blurry to view. It turned out an easy fix to get the broken screws out, after the butterfly was removed, rotated the shaft 180 and the ends of the screws looked swelled causing them to snap off (they came out easy for a few turns then became stuck and snapped the heads off). I took my dremel tool with as narrow a cut off wheel as I had, cut slits in the back side of the broken screws, inserted a small flat bladed screw driver in them, and they backed out of the thread as easy as could be!

Nice pics, looking forward to your updates! :beerchug:

I am REALLY looking forward to this redo :)... I have been wanting to do the same thing myself on a WF model.

It is kind of a 10 maybe a 20 footer at best! She has here share of wear and issues I have to work through.

Is this a #30 carb?
 

I saw a thread about looking down the throat to see the number but not until this evening. I will look inside it when I pull it out of the chem-dip, here is the best pic I have of it.Attachment 9825

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The last 2 pics are of the choke shaft with the screws removed, and the remains of the screws that snapped off, had to put on my reading glasses to perform surgery on those little devils!

Prior to chucking the carb in the chem-dip, I got it totally taken apart, except there was no way the main jet in the carb was coming out, so I left it in there.

Need to get the carb kit ordered, throttle shaft is sloppy, real SLOPPY, need to address that, and get a new float just to be on the safe side!

Next on the agenda is to get the engine disassembled and into the machine shop.

Made a little progress today
 

Yesterday I went out and removed the carb and it's guts from the chem-dip bucket. I am not sure what they po had used for paint on it, but the chem-dip basically had no effect on it. So I tossed it back in the chem-dip for another day. Here is the best pic of what it looked like before.
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Went back out this morning to check the progress of the chem-dip, still no effect on the paint. However, I had grabbed a can of paint remover (you can see it in a later pic that shows all the parts cleaned) to attempt to remove the stubborn paint from the carb and components. Well, it worked very well, it warns not to get it on your skin, it was a little windy and a minute amount of the mist got on my arm. They are serious about avoiding skin contact, had to immediately wash it off, felt like my skin was on fire. After getting the paint off, did a little bit of scrubbing with the chem-dip and a brass brush, then washed everything with carb cleaner, then soap and water. Finally I blew off the water with the air compressor. Below are pics of how it turned out.
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If you look closely in the last pic you will see a tiny spring that fell out of the carb somewhere. I think it may have came out of a hole under the choke shaft, maybe there was a ball bearing with it that was a detent for the choke lever? I downloaded MATTG's carb rebuild how too and he did not remove the choke shaft from that carb, so guessing that is where it might have went. Any ideas of where the spring might go? Am I on the right track? If I am, would it matter if it was omitted from the rebuild? Let me know what you think...

I will start tearing down the motor next, was not sure what I had for a carb until I checked it yesterday, placed an order for the rebuild kit, a new float , a bushing for the throttle shaft, and some other miscellaneous parts from Chris Westfall. http://www.cubclassics.com/decals.html Will put the carb back together when I get the parts in.

In the background of the carb pics you can see a frame I ordered to replace the one on my tractor. It was very worn around the QA forks (to the point the IH snow blade would fall off). I got the frame, some narrow wheels, and a better hydro control lever from Classic Cadets in Washington, MO http://www.classiccadets.com/3.html, there are very good to deal with and were by far the cheapest for the frame replacement ($65.00)! For that price I wasn't going to try to repair my original QA forks, time is money!

The spring and ball are a detent for the choke lever. I think it helps keep the choke from vibrating closed. I would say you probably want those in there. I never removed the choke shafts from mine because I never had one that was worn.

Oh, I forgot to include pics of my custom made decals for this project. You can find them in another post I had, but thought I should include them here. The tractor when finished will be red and white like the 82 series, I just like red better than I do yellow!

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