Help needed! Electrical grimlin strikes again!
 

Ok so im completely stumped and a little PO'd with the electrical system on my 123. I have completely replaced the following with new parts and followed both the diagrams in the tech section and in the manual. New parts include: battery, coil, condenser, voltage regulator, points, points push rod, wire harness, key switch, coil wire, spark plug, and solonoid.

The S/G has been rebuilt twice now, V/R has been polorized correctly, and the timing is set per Matt G's guide. All connections are tight and clean and yet i cant even get the solonoid to grind. :bash: :angry: :bash2:

Maybe ive over looked something. Feel like im :beatdeadhorse:. A new set of eyes or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

How many posts does your solenoid have? It may not be grounded correctly.

It has three posts. I got one that was very close to the original i had removed when i broke it down to restore.

Recently I saw a post on here about a similar problem. It turned out to be the the amp gage in the dash. It must have continuity through it for the charging circuit, but I am not sure if the ignition circuit is through the gage or not. You could check for 12volts at the coil with the key on. Wouldn't hurt to check out battery voltage at the battery. Good Luck!:beerchug:

I was also just looking at the wiring. Is your clutch safety switch hooked up and working? Brake pedal depressed while trying to start? Have you tried jumping the posts of the solenoid with a screwdriver to see if that will bump it?

Correct me if wrong, but a 3 terminal solenoid grounds through the base. Is there bare metal on the dash tower to make contact?

I saw the same post actually. However i dont had an amp guage on the 123...yet:biggrin2: And i have run my volt meter across all the connections. All showed good current readings with the exception of the S/G.

The switch is hooked up and i have the petal depressed every time i turn the key. I cant jump the solenoid as the posts are at opposite sides. Is it possibe to get a new safety switch? and about how much are they?

Try bypassing it first to see if that is the problem. All you should have to do is unplug it and run a jumper wire in the plug to complete the circuit. If that doesn't help is probably not the switch.

They are still available. Here is the current cub number and cost:

Attachment 9796

my friend's 123 is at my house, it has an amp gage mounted to the steering tower. It stuck in my mind, as a normal thing.