Air Compressor for painting
 

Will this air compressor work for repainting the frame, engine, fenders, etc.

Husky 26 gallon 2 HP
6.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI
5.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI

Max PSI= 135 lbs.

Has anyone used this compressor or one with similar specs? If so, what is a good paint gun to use with this compressor?

look at paint gun SCFMs to see what you want to use. Compare notes and make a purchases accordingly:beerchug:

Has anyone used a Low Pressure Low Volume (LPLV) gun to paint? I see a lot of people mentioning HPLV guns, but you need an expensive, professional type air compressor to maintain the standard CFM needed to run these spray guns.

Has anyone had any experience using a LPLV spray gun with a compressor rated at 6.0--6.5 SCFM at 40 PSI?

It is not cost effective for me to invest in the high end compressor and spray gun. Should I just paint my two tractors (IHCC 149's) with rattle cans or would the 6.5 scfm air compressor & gun be worth the investment--in terms of quality of paint job?

For HVLP paint guns we set the tank at 35psi and then using a second regulator at the gun set the gun for 30psi. This will keep plenty of air in the tank for you to use.
Also you could use one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-vo...kit-44677.html

Quick answer would be "probably". Since you won't be painting and entire car, you may be alright spraying each piece and letting the compressor catch up. Won't be the best situation, but you can make it work. You would be much better off with a single stage, oiled compressor that puts out 10-12 cfm @ 90 psi. That's the sweet spot for an LVLP gun. Here's a link to a Kobalt from Lowes that would fit the bill without breaking the bank. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...1&rel=nofollow If you can throw an extra $100, you could move up to a Ingersol Rand at Tractor Supply. http://www.tractorsupply.com/air-com...ressor-3496111

I've sprayed with HVLP, Conventional, Compliant and LVLP guns. The HVLP and LVLP guns are slow. If you are not familiar or comfortable spraying with a particular type of gun, you won't notice. LVLP can spray as nice a finish as the other types, as long as you have a handle on it. Here's a few LVLP guns that won't break the bank. http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...%20EVO4014.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Ampro-A6034-Pr.../dp/B0019MSJ06

IMO;
I used a LPLV unit from Harbor Freight & I returned it the next day even with the yellow paint splatters on it. Maybe there are better units out there but for the $$ I was very DISAPPOINTED with the air flow to the fender I was painting. The unit in question was an all in one unit, motor & gun.
They have a 100% satisfaction thing, well I had 0 satisfaction. It could have been me also?:bash2: But I wasn't going to take the time out to experiment.
I guess you get what you pay for.

I used my regular comp., followed the directions to a T for spraying. Practiced on sheetrock, wood panels & some metal. Got confident & got part of the job done. Now i'm waiting for the weather to break to finish my spraying.
I got some 1/2, 1/3 left over paint from my buddy that he had from some left over automotive jobs & the price was right, $O$ .

A friend of mine that restored a OLD simplicity used a cheap pancake comp., & did a fantastic job. He also bought his on sale at Harbor Freight for about $ 69.00.

All in all i'd stick to an regular air comp., practise a bit & you'll be good to go.

Nik,

No bigger than the parts of these tractors, your compressor will work okay, as mentioned, you may from time to time have to let the compressor catch up with you. I like the hplv guns, that is what I use. Also, get some type of water trap before you paint. The have ones that screw onto the airline at the paint gun that work very well, last ones I bought were 7 bucks for 2...lot better than getting water spots in your paint.

Thanks for all of the responses!

I did a little more research, and now I'm thinking a HPLV mini spray gun or "touch up" gun is the way to go with the compressor I have (6.5 SCFM at 40 psi). I was looking at one, and the SCFM required is 3 @ 40 psi, it also comes with a 12 oz cup. The darn thing is priced at $274:angry:

I do not plan to paint a car or very large tractor anytime soon, so this may be the perfect fit for painting small panels, engine baffles, etc.

Any thoughts?
http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...CaseLarge.html

SO - do you already own the compressor? If not, you'd be much further ahead investing your money into a bit larger compressor than an expensive touchup gun. (IMHO) If you already have the compressor, I would suggest you find a compliant gun, which will need less air. Understand that the HVLP, LVLP, Compliant and Conventional are due to governmental regulations. HVLP & LVLP guns are set up to have greater transfer efficiency, meaning that most of the paint is not lost in overspray. The catch is that it only works that way if you conform to the 'cap pressure' of 10 psi. Each gun will have different spec for the necessary inlet pressure to acheive 10 psi at the cap. If you go over this inlet pressure, you lose some of your transfer efficiency and the gun is now being operated as a Compliant or even Conventional gun. That being said, I wouldn't get too caught up in the labels on the guns. Most conventional guns are easy to drive (ie: not air hogs) You can pick one for $25 all over the place. I still use one for spraying some primers and as long as it's kept clean it works great. You can pick up Titan 2 or 3 gun sets for $100. If you want to spend the money, an excellent gun with a lot of options and accessories that sprays beautifully is a Devilbiss Plus. Around the same price as the mini you posted above, but comes with 3 tips, regulator and a few other items. It has a great following and is highly regarded. It is not an air hog due to being a compliant gun, but it does seem to be on the edge of your needs. I think you would have more versatility with this gun than the mini. http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...0DEVGFG670.htm

I already have the compressor.

Also, a larger 60 gallon compressor is not a feasible option for me right now.
the issues are; cost, the need for a 220 outlet, the need to bolt down the unit to the concrete floor, etc.

I don't know...I guess I'll just go with the rattle can option...I am confused, and I don't want to waste a lot of money, only to be disappointed with the end product.

I'm not looking to win a tractor show. I just want a cost effective and durable paint job to improve the looks of my tractors and to protect the underlying metal...