Slam-O-Matic drive
 

Just getting the 129 ready for it's used engine. While I was babysitting the J.B. weld I put on the front axle bushing I saw this. And the drive shaft's fan is crap too. Hey at least it's not raining.

R Bedell, Do ya think you could rework the drive coupler for me if I ship it to you?:Duh:

I forgot to turn it around. So I'm guessing I now need a shaft too?!

Richard:

How about modifying your drive with an Upgrade.

Here is a few images what Engineer David Kirk came up with....

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-2.jpg

PARTS LIST ...... nuts and bolts available locally

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-3.jpg

The Drive Shaft will have to be cut and one hole have to be drilled to accommodate the 1/4" Spirol Pin.

This will upgrade the drive shaft similar to what is on Quietline Series and later.

:ThumbsUp:

R Bedell,

Thanks for the information and pictures to with it. I had even thought of adding another disc to the one already there and then cut the drive shaft. But I never thought of going to the front and thereby have symmetry. It looks like I could just flip the drive shaft on the 129?

This is a case of if all you have is a hammer.... Last night I put some liquid weld to my drive cup. About 12 hours latter this is what I have. But unless the J.B. gets much harder it'll never work.

Richard:

On the 82 Series Cubs, there are Double Flex Disc Couplers on each end of the Drive Shaft, and that certainly can be done as a modification to your 129.

Palmer

I have no experience with the older Cubs however the same rules apply. Each end of the shaft MUST ride in a healthy bushing, cutting the worn portion of the shaft off or turning it or adding another flex will NOT solve your problem. The flex couple will NOT center your shaft, that's what the bushing does, without the bushing in place you will have wobble and further deterioration. As Roland pointed out the correct fix, I've bought all these parts new for a QL I had and IIRR should run you about $100 to replace. The shaft you can purchase at a hydraulic shop as cylinder rod for about $12, at least that's what paid.

Scott

I'll tell ya I could fix this stuff with a welder, a drill press and a file. If I were to get oxygen/acetylene I would have to invest several hundred dollars in equipment and leases. Before I can even think about tig or mig I would not only need a 220 line, I would have to get my wiring upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp service. For the amount of welding I need to do and can foresee doing it just isn't practical. :bash2: :bash2:

I just did this front coupler mod on a 149, and the driveshaft does not have to be cut, but you do have to drill a new hole for the spirol pin. It cost less to buy the QL parts to change the front coupler, than to buy the stock 129 (and below, hydro models) coupler/drive hub. It's not a lot less, but is cheaper, and you also shouldn't have to replace anything again. The slot in the new stock replacement coupler/drive hub will wear in a short time.

pbell,

Thanks. I really want to keep it OEM, but time does prove out improvements and "World Trade" has proven inferior products starting with the steel. So I need to rethink the gospel of OEM.

murphycc,

The 129 does not use bushings in this part of the drive line. Starting with the QL series is when bushings came into play along with a different drive shaft and couplers.

BTW J.B. is too soft.

http://cgi.ebay.com/cub-cadet-hydros...A30%7C294%3A50

Check this out Palmer.

Scott