Hydrostatic Drive shaft, rubber disc
 

Any idea what the rubber disc on the drive shaft coupler are made of ( I know rubber) on a 1450 ? I have been searching to no avail , I am in the middle of modifying my drive shaft, going to use a u-joint for the rear, and the "rag joint" coupler (factory) for the front, I want to replace the rubber disc, the back are in good shape, I suppose I could move them to the front, however if I could find the correct material cheap enough I had rather replace it. I think I have this right in my head on how it should/needs to be done, u-joint in the rear on the hydro, and factory coupler in the front, with provision/modification for easy removal if ever need be in the future. I have not settled on a u-joint yet, I have seen the one used by Dave Kamp, however I may go a different route if I can find a slimmer u-joint geared more to industrial type transmission cheap enough and bore, or sleeve for the shaft. Granger has what I would like, but price is way out of line, this is what I would love to use though, however it's only rated at 1750 rpm, the needle bearings rise as sharp in price as they do speed.

http://images.grainger.com/B284_21/i...ucts/1L730.JPG

I have stainless bearing shaft already, just need to get the u-joint, plastic fan because mine is shot ( was going to use an aluminum fan, however changed my mind of direction from a member about why the plastic fans break, and aluminum might damage something else of it came in contact with something)

The rubber almost looks like a tire, been checking mcmaster etc, just not sure what it is, and I was hoping someone may have been there done that.

Thanks, Clint

Hi Clint if you don't find the material for the front rag gear...

FLEX COUPLING DISC 722-3000 922-3000 IH 106481 C1
482 580 582 680 682 782 784 800 882 982 984 1000 1050 1100 1200 1204 1210 1211 1250 1282 1450 1541 1572 1604 1606 1650 1710 1711 1712 1772 1806 1810 1811 1812 1860 1872 1912 1914 2072

4 AVAILABLE stock photo
$12.00 EA

At Cub Cadet Warehouse

Why exactly do you want to change to a u-joint?

The problem with flex couplers for the Quietlines is the design of the metal couplers they bolt to, require a larger inner opening circle than the older model cubs used. This makes the newer flex couplers more prone to strech and break. Some Quietlines only have one coupler front and one rear, this along with more horse power, and the engine mounted on ISO rubbers puts a lot of stress on the flex couplers.

My answer to this was to use two flex couplers on the front and two on the rear. I use one of the new flex couplers to mount to the metal coupler and back that one up with one of the older flex coulpers with more material in the center. Together they are very strong. This requires making a shorter drive shaft and you need longer bolts for the flex couplers.

This drive shaft system seems to last forever. I do this to all of my Quietlines and also use the same system on my 782. I've never lost a coupler since doing this and I don't get the streching in the flex couplers.

This sounds like a great cost effective idea.

What's the best way to accurately drill a new hole in the driveshaft for the cross pin? Does anybody sell a jig (other than a milling machine) at a reasonable cost for a drillpress?

I was just reading over on improvements, my driveshaft needs reworking, the rubber disc, and also the shaft itself is pitted and rusty, it would probably be ok, however I already have the stainless bearing shaft, so that will go in regardless, I will also use a coupling connection made from stainless with a slip/split fit , and it also has set screw I know these are turned, and balanced to a high degree. This itself will help tremendous amounts on dealing with the current, and future problems, if you don't think the u-joint is a good idea let me know, and why please.

Here is a link, it's a PDF. I thought very interesting.

http://cubfaq.com/DK%20IHCCmods.pdf

I've had very good luck with my setup on the 782. Its all oem parts (couplers/bushings/flex discs) and is real smooth at all rpm's. A common big problem is if you over torque the bolts for the rubber flex discs. It won't allow them to work as they should.

I doubled up the flex disks on my 1282 and used a new driveshaft with no problems. The doubling seems to absorb a little more of the vibration.
Although mine only calls for one at each end two seem to work pretty well.

I've heard from more than a few people that the JDs with the U-joint would eat U-joints every few hundred hours. If you use the 4 flex discs, the rag joints will last a long time. I'd just stick with the OEM stuff.

Got a 1450 I am trying to make even more bulletproof for mowing use.. it has those spherical bearings in the couplers at each end of the driveshaft.. If I shorten the driveshaft, it won't slip into the couplers anymore.. so will I need to just move the pin holes and the inner couplers on the driveshaft to make room for two discs?

Also.. Other equipment I have had with rag joints always seems to use sleeves on the attaching bolts to limit the crush on the rubber part... Has anyone tried sleeving the bolts to help out keeping the nuts tight without crushing the rubber?

I picked up a spare driveshaft and some couplers on ePay so I can experiment some.. I may put the solid plastic (hard polyurethane) engine mounts on as well.. I really dislike the iso setup.