Inexpensive Hydro Movers !!
 

Hello, so I am working on my 127 and its not running due to carb problems, so I need to move it around my shop, picked up these dollies from harbor freight for 8 bux each, and they allow me to push it very easy on my garage floor.

http://jlefantephoto.smugmug.com/Mac...74_ebArC-L.jpg

http://jlefantephoto.smugmug.com/Mac...56_5JvaQ-L.jpg

http://jlefantephoto.smugmug.com/Mac...81_GGwSp-L.jpg

http://jlefantephoto.smugmug.com/Mac...43_QuLyT-L.jpg

Great idea, Jay! Thanks for sharing. :beerchug:

Yep, I'm headed to Harbour Freight tomorrow... Great idea!! :biggrin2.gif:

Don't forget the 20% Off Coupon: http://dealspl.us/harborfreight-coupons/108017p

Hello JaysNJcub127,
These carbs are easy.
Turn the fuel valve off or pinch the hose off.
Remove the air filter house.
Pull the float bowl off using a 9/16 6 point socket.
Turning away from the seat towards the front of the mower.
Use a short piece of awg12 wire to poke the float pin out, remove the float making sure not to loose the float needle
Shake the float to see if it is full of fuel.
If the float is good and you have gunk in the bowl.
Un-screw the vertical screw-adjuster and take it out.
It is about 2.5 inches long with a sharp point.
Look at the carb the cast tower that extends into the bottom of the bowl
has 2 holes in it. Use a piece of light wire to poke through 1 hole and out the 2nd hole. This is where the main part of the carb gets it's fuel and when these two holes get clogged.. NO Fuel gets to the mains.
A shot of carb cleaner works good after using the wire.
Inside the tower is a needle seat jet. It can be removed with a flat screwdriver, but is not usually done as it comonly sticks and won't come out anyway.
The 2.5 inch long needle has 4 holes in it make sure these are clear and use carb spray to spray into the two bottom holes and spray comes out the top holes
That is pretty much it.
Re assemble.
Using only your fingers tighten the long needle all the way down and then using a screwdriver back the needle out 1 1/2 turns.
Never force the needles with any tool as you will ruin the factory "TUNE"
I may??? If I get my 105 running, convert it to E85 just for the fun of it...
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions...
I love Tuning Carbs!!!!

The main needle needs to be backed out about 2 1/8 turns and the idle about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4. It's not worth trying to take the carb apart on the tractor. Sometimes (as in a lot of the time) they are gunked up bad enough that a few squirts of carb cleaner isn't going to cut it. They need to be soaked. I'd suggest taking a look at this.

Hello Matt,
I agree about most carbs needing soaked.
JaysNJcub127's 127 looks to be in good shape.
Most likely just a small piece of junk blocking the main inlet.
Not a tractor that has been stored a decade or neglected.
Taking those carb mounting nuts and the gov. linkage off is a pain.
and totally not needed to remove a bit of derbis from a previously running machine.
+ you might tear the carb mounting gasket if the previous mechanic forgot to use chapstick.
The 1.5 turns is just a starting off point. Each carb will have to be started and tuned. I did forget that part. Thanks. :beerchug:
I will go enjoy the link you posted.

Good advise!!!
 

This for the carb tips. The carb on my tractor is a walbro. I just got a rebuilt #26 from a local
Ember and brand new fuel sediment bowl and fuel line and all new gaskets. It is preset the way Matt describes so hopefully it will at least start!!! This tractor was sitting for like 5 years and basically put gas in it and it ran never even cleaned the carb except for some carb spray.