K341 head would you use this ?
 

Attachment 5893

Attachment 5894

Attachment 5895

I have sent off my head to be reworked and I have somebody else's back. I am not impressed, it was supposed to have .50 milled off the sealing surface and I get one back that the cooling fins have been milled, how much of the cooling fins have been removed I don't know, but look at the calipers that is what I have left.

The sealing surface is or does appear to be milled but it does not appear to be milled square.

When I put the head on the block I can see light between the head and block, I know a gasket will take this up, and no I didn't pay the price that is listed on the head.

This was done "by a business that specializes in small engines" not a sponsor here.:angry::bash2:

Give me your opinion, mine is it's going back but that might take another 3 weeks and getting the CC company involved to get this mess straight.

Looks like cheezy work to me.
:angry:

I know I wouldn't be very happy at all if that was mine :bash2:

We had a similar discussion a week or so ago...

My best guess is that in order to get the head to set flat on the mill table, they had to clamp it gasket surface down and mill the top (fin side) first. After the fins were milled flat the head could then be turned over and clamped (gasket surface up) for milling.

As I suggested in the earlier post, without a proper fixture, I have no idea how you would clamp a head for milling. It would be nearly impossible to clamp a head in the vice and get it perfectly flat with the mill. This is the reason I sand my heads instead of milling them.

I would be VERY unhappy with the head in your pictures.

Why did you have .50 off the head?

Hopefully it was a typo and should be .050.

Even at .050 that is more than I would take off.


Is this for a puller? Around here the only class that requires a factory head is stock class.....and the head needs to have a lip-edge-something to stop your finger nail. Maybe you class(es) are different where you live.

head milling
 

i mill my own heads... never once have i ever taken any off the cooling fins. i mill one side flat, and then the opposite side parallell to first, then you have a good hold in a bridgeport vise, that wont stress the head while you are shaving the sealing surface. i have done 4 this way, and then i finish with flat sanding, to assure my work, and improve the finish . they always come out perfect. The first one i did was off my 104, which had been run overheating for apparently years. It is so warped, you can look at it and see the waviness in the fins from the side. I still run it, as i got the sealing surface flat and have fixed the throttle shaft in the carb that caused it to run lean for previous owner.

It's not a puller and I meant .050 off the head, I cannot explain why anybody would mill some of the cooling fins, I have seen better work in H.S. shop class. This is a way "somebody does his work" his work stands out, because another member told his story and his name and we both used the same person we have the same results. I pressed him on the head and he "said" he will stand by it, I will finish what he started and clean up the fins this is NOT up to my standards.:bash2:

Lesson learned I will always use my local guy he is cheap and does excellent work.

I doubt the head gasket will seal if you are seeing light.

Why did you want .050 off the head?
There is no noticeable increase in performace on a stock motor.

It's not stock, and I am still building it as we speak, so we will find out soon enough if I have to send the head that looks like angry beavers attacked it or not.

What mods are you doing to it?