Hot Thottle Cable
 

Hello
I'm working on my 1450 trying to get it running and I noticed that the throttle cable is hot as fire and common sense tells me I must have a bare wire in contact with the cable from the ignition circuit. I look and no wires are touching and I move the wires anyway and watch and I saw no sparks and the cable was cool. I try again and keep the motor continuously rotating and again the cable gets hot. I didn't find any bare wires but noticed a spark coming from the cable whe it rubbed against the steering tower. I there some ground that is loose? I took some old gas line (dry) and slipped it around the cable to insulate it until I could figure out what was the cause,
Oh Rooooooooooolllllllllllllllaaaaaaannnnnndddddd
Thanks

YYYYYeeeeeessssss.............

You got a short.....:biggrin2.gif:

I would guess it's a short like R Bedell said or it's trying to make a ground though the cable make sure your grounds from the tractor engine to the frame are clean and tight .Hope it works out for you .

Bob

:bigthink:

On second thought, you could also have a missing and/or poor Ground. The electrical system could be trying to find a ground system through the path of the Steering Column, pedestal, and choke cable. Check all your ground cables to see if they are in good shape, clean, secured tight, and have good contact.


:IH Trusted Hand:

Thanks Guys!
Roland I just had to do that.

JCrews: Roland is right on...

1)Replace the Ground cable with a new one slightly longer (they are called starter cables at your local auto parts store) and change the chassis ground location away from that fender pan location IH used. Go straight to the frame (no "sandwich" plies of metal!!). Ensure a good metal to metal contact and repaint.

2) Your Voltage Regulator will have the same ground problem, as is. So, install a 14 gauge ground wire from the ground foot of the V/R around the back of the battery box to the negative post of the battery. Then it, too, will be properly grounded on that QL.

3) This procedure should be done for all Cub Cadets with batteries under the seat!!

Myron B

Roland & Myron
I know what the problem is... when I bought this cub it was in a million pieces and I was crazy enough to give $ 150.00 for it. I actually reassembled the engine after having it bored out to .30 over and then checked to see if I assembled it correctly ( 10 years ago) and had it about 98% correct (talk about dumb luck) and never put a direct ground of the motor to the frame but the battery has a direct ground to the frame I did know that and sanded the frame at the contact point tightened down and painted over.Ibought a 1 guage wire for my engine ground and am about to decide where to attach it. After learning so much and service manuals and othewr cubs later that issue never occurred to me since I used it many times over the years even when I had to remove the engine 2 or 3 different times I just assumed bolting it down did the trick even though it has isomounts.Myron my VR is a solid state, could I run an eye ring terminal from one of the mounting bolts?.I ran a 10 guage wire a couple of years ago with an eye ring terminal from the starter generator to the battery and boy did it make an improvement at start up. I have 4 guage running that way on my 154 and it fires right up. Well I'l quit rambling and let you answer my questions. Thanks

JCrews....I had a bit of CRS in my above response...The battery ground cable advice is good for the QL's and all models with batteries under the seat.

The comment on the V/R ground wire is applicable to the 1x8/9 series with a mechanical V/R in the battery box under the seat.

The QL's with the Solid state V/R mounted on the engine shroud is ok as is. B-u-t the engine does need a good ground strap to the frame for the starter, ignition and the V/R to have the necessary ground portion of the electrical circuit.

Myron B

Well I grounded the engine to the frame with 1 guage wire on bare metal. I took the battery ground cable off the frame and took the grinder and scuffed up the metal contact surfaces, I even ran a 10 guage ground from the voltage regulator to the frame. I swapped out the points coil, resistor, plug wire spark plugs (new) in fact all new parts and made sure to scuff the contact surface behind the points and degreased and scuffed every contact for a ground. Boy does that motor turn over better, but I still can get no fire or spark from the plug or points adjusted & set at .20. If it's not the voltage regulator I don't know what else to do. Myron?????????? Roland????????

JCrews: In order to get fire to the points, there must be 12v from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil with that same 12v coming out of the - side of the coil with 12v then to the points. I'm guessing the switch may be the culprit.

A bad coil or condenser can also "kill" the spark...If you have 12 v to the + side of the coil, change the condenser (most economical). If there is is 12v to the + side of the coil but no 12v at the - side... change the coil....

Myron B