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-   -   1811 possible mule drive pulley seized ruining crankshaft seal? (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63923)

Eslenk 06-03-2026 10:17 PM

1811 possible mule drive pulley seized ruining crankshaft seal?
 
Pulled the engine on the 1811 for cleaning and new seal behind flywheel.
Power washed everything put it back together and cut grass for about an hour.
As i was finishing cutting the motor bogged down and a puff of smoke came from the front of the engine and the engine died.
Made a oil mess from the flywheel side of a recently cleaned mower.

Engine starts and runs fine and surprisingly the engine is not low on oil which had been changed when I put the tractor back together.

One of the pulleys is bound up or seized I believe but haven't got a chance to look at it further.

I feel the new flywheel side oil leak is the result of the engine working against a pulley going bad that it ran so hot that it ruined the new crankshaft seal.

The engine starts and runs fine and there was no obvious low level of oil on the dipstick but what did come out sure did make a mess.

Anyway ,does it sound plausible that a pulley going bad and eventually seizing could cause the engine to run so hot it could destroy the crankshaft seal?
Thanks.

SS5150 06-03-2026 10:27 PM

Seems like a stretch to me.

I'd think a seized mule pulley would obliterate the belt in short order and make alot of noise and smoke in the process.

ol'George 06-04-2026 07:50 AM

1811: if it has the factory M-18, it used a slightly larger I.D. crank seal under the flywheel from its prodessor the early kohler series II.
----Some cross listings do not list that seal properly.
When installing, the inside diameter of the seal where it rides on the crank, should have a bit of grease in the lip, and care should be taken when installing not to nick the lip on the sharp keyway.
Your PTO/pulley is on the other end of the crank, It is very unlikely that could have caused a problem. :bigthink:

Eslenk 06-04-2026 11:12 AM

I've had the mower over 20 years and have replaced the seals several times with the seal part number being the same each time and never having a leak.

What I'm thinking may have happened but have not investigated yet is a mule drive or deck pulley may have been failing causing undo strain on the engine causing it to continue to run hotter possibly causing the crankshaft seal to fail before the pulley eventually seized.

ironman 06-04-2026 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eslenk (Post 541010)
What I'm thinking may have happened but have not investigated yet is a mule drive or deck pulley may have been failing causing undo strain on the engine causing it to continue to run hotter possibly causing the crankshaft seal to fail before the pulley eventually seized.

I believe Don Quixote would find a windmill before I can go along with that scenario, but who knows? Keep us posted....:popcorn:

Eslenk 06-04-2026 02:26 PM

Well so far I found the left side mule drive pulley completely seized up and right side one feels like it's not too far behind.

It will be a few days before I can get around to pulling the engine.

ol'George 06-04-2026 08:33 PM

As I stated its highly unlikely.
I have torn down M-18's that had the fins completly plugged with debris and never had a seal go bad for that cause.
I've seen them blown out, worm out, installed incorrectly or cheap aftermarket junk.
But what do I know, I'm just an old fart, and you didn't ask my opinion.

I've been building engines before Chevrolet released their first Small block in '55 :bigthink:
I honestly hope your new seal lasts forever, best of luck!:beerchug:

Eslenk 06-05-2026 07:43 AM

The seal I'm using is part #52 032 10-S the same part # I used through out the years and bought from the Cub Cadet dealer.

Ambush 06-05-2026 09:52 AM

People with a lot of experience are telling you that the pulley and seal leaking are unrelated and I strongly agree. Actually I’ll go further and say just plain “nope”.

You said you’ve changed the seal numerous times over your time with the tractor. You have a shaft problem in that case. Many of those crank seals last twenty years and more. I’ve changed literally many thousands of seals in my career. Repeated premature failure always has a cause. Find the cause. And it’s not your pullleys.

ol'George 06-05-2026 12:32 PM

Let me throw this bit of info into the mix.
Very old NOS Belts and seals are as hard as a groom on his wedding night!

But unlike said groom, the seals and belts are brittle and soon fail.
I've been around since dirt was new, and I have a hell of a lot of old seals in original boxes, paper and later plastic, and most are no longer any good because they are brittle.
And belts hanging on nails in the shop that look perfect, but trust me, they don't last long,as I have tried to use them.
Its possible old mom/pop dealers have old inventory in stock.
Hard goods are ok.

I have a 2 gallon bucket of "O" rings that look perfect, till you stretch them with your hands and all the cracks appear.
Sometimes they get me by in a pinch to finish planting or harvest season or sometimes long enough till the new fresh items are delivered.

Just throwing info out there that sometimes we don't think of.
Also:
be wary of NOS stuff on the internet, even paper gaskets, some need to be soaked in oil or water first or they will not seal.
Early plastics become brittle/decompose when exposed to UV .
also rubber goods, when exposed to ozone.

I'm ok because I have my tires hung in the shop with care like the holiday rhyme says, not far from big electric motor that produces ozone.
All electric motors that utilise brushes, produce ozone.
Ok, enough rambling from an old fart.


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