what CC models for axles with external brakes on each wheel?
 

Hi,

What CC models for axles with external brakes on each wheel/hub with shaft drive? Reason for shaft drive is I want to eventually use a diesel and horizontal is the only reasonable offering under $2000?

The used diesel 3xxx series with axle lock are few and far between around here and when available they are over $2000 for a beat one.

Reason for external brakes is safety, especially while towing a trailer down hill and I need to hit the brakes if the transaxle does not slow it down enough.

I prefer disc, but, I would settle for big drum brakes. I would like a flat floor like the 2### series instead of having to swing my leg over a hump a dozen times in a row while doing tree work.

I am just trying to avoid buying a Chinese UTV and the LT/GT size is really what I desire since my property is small. Plus, I want to drive slow, not fast, and pull ground implements and 800#-1200# trailers and equipment.

I really want to move over to diesel, I have been using $10-$15 (3-6 gallons) of gas a week on my wide body Murray with the 17.5 HP B&S. The dinky disc brake is totally inadequate for any trailer over 300#

I thought the HDS 2185 was external brakes, looks like it is an internal brake and the pads are not readily available. I look forward this week to the struggle of removing the totally frozen steering column.

:bash2:

Thanks!

Welcome to OCC!!
Something to think about,:bigthink:
Presently Gas vs Diesel prices work out to Gas being less expensive per work hour than diesel.
I'd be more concerned with the ability of the tires to grip the ground than the dual brake issue.
Garden tractors are not designed to pull heavier trailers up/down hills.
A 10 Cu.Ft lawn cart fully loaded with dirt is a struggle on level ground at approx. #700-1000.

You might consider something like an old Ford 8N tractor that sells for, in nice shape, but not all restored around $2500
They are plentyful with good parts avilibilty.
Although not MTD/ cub cadet, they are not foreign built and have a solid reputation.
I'm not a Ford man by any means, just making a suggestion.

I think any old tractor would work better like ol george said a 8n is a better option we have one they are handy.:American Flag 1:

The last diesel Cub Cadet made was the 1782 back in 1996. They never put a diesel in a 2000 or 3000 series Cub. They did make (sub-out) making the 5000 & 7000 series but stay away from them because they are problematic.

If you want split brakes on a Cub Cadet diesel you will need a super garden tractor such as a model 1572, 1772 or 1782. I'm not sure how steep your property is but I don't know if I'd want to pull a 1200LB trailer down hill with one. Everything in the machine will hold up but I'm not sure you will keep traction.

What part of GA are you from? I'm in Ball Ground.

The 3000 series Cubs from 1998, 1999 and early 2000 had the individual disk brakes on each rear wheel. After that they went to the single tiny disc on the transaxle sub-shaft.

Bill

There are articles on this forum about fellers splitting the rear discs to seperate pedals.
My old 1650 has disks on each rear wheel.
For moldboard plowing they give a little better control.
IIRR, Mat G did an article a few years back in maybe '10?

First off, thank you for the replies.
 

First off, thank you for the replies.

The reason for wanting diesel is it stores safer, better, and longer then gas. Especially in the tank or (gas) carb.

Plus, the diesels tend to use a lot less at idle and many gas OPE engines you should not idle them for a long period of time without risking destroying the engine, especially if they do not have an oil pump, imho.

> I'm not sure how steep your property is

The spot that gives me the most trouble and worry probably drops 8 feet in height within 40 feet. Side sloping the hill with my Bronco II felt pretty iffy.

Attachment 117957

I have a 4x4 Ford Ranger and could resurrect a Bronco II (both about 16 feet long), but, they like a tractor (and most UTVs) would be too wide and overkill especially for an up coming need. I would be too scared to take an older typical high centre of gravity and narrow tractor where the Murray usually goes into and out of my back yard multiple times in one day.

I want to clean my MIL's lot and have to squish by the house and a border fence with maybe 5 feet to spare after I take down the fence to access her backyard. I will be hauling out 30+ six inch trees, plus I want to get my chipper back there (800 pounds?) so I do not have to haul branches and slash out by hand.

Basically looking for a 48"+- wide by 8-9+- foot long GT, tractor, or UTV capable of hauling a chipper or cart of firewood. Within the next two weeks I have to move at least 4 cords of wood from my front yard to store in the backyard. Using the wide body Murray and a cart with maybe 6-8 cubic feet of pine will be 64+ unsafe trips.

> 8n is a better option

I have been looking into some diesel tractors, though for what most people "try" to sell them for on FB, I would be better off just buying a new Korean tractor FEL or something.

> What part of GA are you from? I'm in Ball Ground.

Stone Mountain.

I am looking to sticking with CC mainly because of access to parts and because in general I like them. Until I wore it out, the best string trimmer I had was a CC30.

I have found a local CC 2284 that has individual (cutting?) brakes and the centre of gravity looks okay. Between the $1400 price and 3-4 hour trip for a 28 year odl tractor, I don't know.

I did not know it existed, but, I found using "cub cadet" as a search term, I found two "Cub Cadet Big Country 4x6"s. I think it might be too wide and long, BUT, it does look like it can carry a decent amount of firewood and I could skip the trailer. Width is the killer, over 5 feet, and I do not need a two seater.

> The 3000 series Cubs from 1998, 1999 and early 2000

Excellent.

I found a local CC 122, it only has a single external DISC brake, but, without a creeper probably not suitable, plus, swinging my leg over a dozen times a day wearing steel toe boots and chainsaw chaps is not ideal.
:beatdeadhorse:

Gasoline purchased at at high volume gas station is good for over a year,
BTDT every year.
I fill my barrels every year in Dec/Jan/feb. when prices are down for the next
year with never a problem, been doing it 60+ years,
and nothing wrong with idling a gas engine all day long even with splash lubrication.
Don't try it with the new diesels with particulate exhaust filters.

If you want to go diesel, do it, your choice, but nothing wrong with gas.

My combine is diesel its over 50 yrs old no EPA stuff on it,
or my 70D and 730D John Deers.
Just my .02 cents. :bigthink:
If I was going to buy a CUT or SCUT diesel, I'd buy a older pre def. Kubota,
Parts are plentyful and they hold their value, something like A B7500 4X4 with front loader. Again, just suggestions to help.

Cub Cadet diesels usually bring a premium price. You could almost buy an older Kubota diesel tractor for what the diesel Cub's bring now days. I have a Kubota B7500 and it is an outstanding machine. Sometimes there are some decent priced Kubota B's & BX's on FBMP. It all depends on what your budget is.

Yeah, unfortunately I'd stay away from Cub on anything bigger than a super.