1250 Starting Reliability (Components and Wiring)
 

Hello guys,

Last year I purchased a quiet line 1250 for my father to plow snow. So far this year it's been great but this recent storm left him with a cub unable to start. He lives about 6 hours away from me so it's really difficult to fix things for him to get it running again. The next time I visit I plan to make some fixes and repairs. Currently his no start situation is either the ignition switch or the PTO switch isn't letting power get to the starter solenoid. Possibly it's also the solenoid. Neutral safety is bypassed so it's not that and I had him double check the PTO switch was not on. Anyways I was able to walk him through how to hotwire it and get it started by putting the key in run and jumping the battery right to the starter terminal. The ignition still works in run but start position doesn't do anything. Not even a click from the solenoid. I plan on replacing the PTO switch, ignition switch and solenoid just to be safe next time I visit. It got me thinking though. Is there any wiring modifications I can do to keep issues like this from happening in the future? Can I just bypass the PTO switch and make it still crank even if that goes bad in the future? I just want to simplify it so he's not stuck again without a plow. It's really difficult for him to do the work himself so even a starter solenoid would be a huge undertaking for him alone. It's easy for me but I'm young and have a knack for tinkering with this stuff. Any other reliability suggestions would be really appreciated. Before I gave it to him I did all the maintenance items and replaced any worn components. Thanks again and any suggestions of common issues or things I can do to help him out in the future is really appreciated.

It is very common for the plug and contacts on the back of the key switch to become corroded and cause the issue you have. Although not easy to get to, just wiggling the plug or re-seating may give you a temporary fix.
If no help, the switches do go bad. Make sure you get the correct p/n switch. Those that look the same on the outside do not always make the same connections on the inside. The correct switch is IH-61524-C3

The solenoid is easy enough to test, just touch a jumper wire from the solenoids small lug to the battery positive pole. If it operates, your good. Also check that the solenoid body is making good contact to the frame for a solid ground.

I'd only consider the PTO switch as a last resort, although exercising it a few times in case its got dirty contacts wouldn't hurt.

Oh my, it would be so helpful if you could break this LONG paragraph into readable sentances, starting from the left. :bigthink:

We cannot help you bypass any safety switches. You may understand this but I just want to make sure this is clear.

I agree what Ironman said.... and it is also possible the safety switch bypass could have been compromised.

Take a test meter or test light along with you if Dad doesn't have one.

Have him play with the pto switch while trying to start. i have a couple quietlines that won' crank sometimes and if I just push up a little on the pto switch they crank. I bought a couple of new switches in case these die completly but haven't put them in yet.