882 rearend replacement
 

3 years ago while plowing my garden, my 882 hydro pump locked up, broke the rear coupler and the flopping drive shaft destroyed just about everything it could under the tunnel cover. I parked it.

I figured it was time to get this repaired so I pulled a 1862 parts roller into the shop to use the rear and pump from it. I'm switching over to a CV drive shaft on this one with a little help from 'Parts by Jeff".

I pulled the rear cover on the 1862 rear and found a bunch of water inside it along with some type of oil. I lifted the assembly on to the OR table and pulled the axles and removed the axle carriers. Look at the mess I found inside as with what most of these machines probably have. A mixture of oil and water that gets trapped inside of them.
Attachment 117449 Attachment 117450

The reason I pulled the axle tubes is to drill the "Drain Back Holes" to keep oil from getting trapped in them. Here are the before and after pics of these 3/8" holes I drilled.
Attachment 117451 Attachment 117452

My local grocery store sells these gasket maker material boxes for around $28 each so I always have a few on hand just in case I need to make some gaskets. I've had good luck with these in the past. I do use a little bit of Permatex Ultra Black on them.
Attachment 117453

I've read numerous times about the addition of "drainback" holes and it seems like a good idea, but at the same time I'm curious if doing it
reduces the possibility of lubrication getting to the axle tube bearings and seals. Thoughts?

And nice to see that you do not stick to just one brand of gasket.:beerchug:

That gasket material has familiar look---
Thinking its a dual purpose material.:biggrin2:
I've used that along with paper bags and even tried tar paper in a in pinch.
But the best is a roll of real gskt material.
That glob of lubricant looks like its a water absorbent that is put in Hytran.
I like the water to settle in the bottom so I can drain it off rather than mix.
But that's just me.
On my bigger tractors that have 15 ++ gallons of oil, its a good practice to loosen the drain plug and drain off a pint or so of the water/condensate every year.

882 rear end replacement
 

I drilled holes in my rear end when I refurbished my 1864. I recall seeing pictures that Sam Mac posted some years ago showing the exact same problem with the "goop" that gets trapped in the end bells over time. :crap:

I think it's an excellent idea and should be done if the transmission has been taken out for a pump seal replacement, or for any reason. It's good insurance to keep the rear end in good shape for the longevity of the tractor. Future Cub Cadet owners will really appreciate it too! :biggrin2:

As far as lubrication goes...I would think that the bearings would receive better quality lubricant from cleaner fluid sloshing around in the end bells while the tractor is in motion. With the axles turning at such a slow rpm, not much oil would be needed to keep things lubricated. The benefit is when the hydro fluid is changed, ALL of the fluid in the case can be drained and refreshed with new fluid.

Todd I like your choice for gaskets. Glad you followed my tip on the drain holes. Should work good when you're all done.:beerchug:

882 rear end replacement
 

I wonder... :bigthink: Why didn't CCC/MTD put drain holes in the end bells? They must have known that crud and condensation was going to build up over time. Kinda overlooked the obvious...hard to believe. :HeadScratch:

I've been busy on other things and haven't had much time for wrenching.:bash2:

I ordered the Kubota adapter from "Parts by Jeff" at the top of the page and he did a fine job as always.
Attachment 117648


I know I've heard on here before that you can't use a 3000 series driveshaft on the diesels but a few others have with good luck so that's what I'm going to do.

I shortened up an old 3000 series shaft I had, inserted a 6" piece of old shafting I had laying around and cranked up the welder and welded it to the new length.
Attachment 117650 Attachment 117651


Here it is in the 882 with the new Scamazon drive barrels.
Attachment 117649


Next task will be making the new hydro lines that got destroyed when the old shaft failed.

Oak just my 2 cents but the 2000 series stuff doesn't last behind the diesel's. You're better off going with the CV stuff

Yup, I have heard that too Sam. I know Matt G did one years ago and I think his is still working. I've had this 882 for 14 years and only put about 50 hours on it since I picked it up in 2012. I mainly use it for plowing and nothing else. This should put the drive barrels to the test pretty quick. If it fails I don't think it will destroy everything like the rag joints did when the pump locked up. If it does fail, I have a CV on the shelf for it. I'm mainly doing this for a test because I've never seen a documented failure on these in a diesel. If it works, I'll probably convert my others over when ever they need replaced.

Todd I think the biggest issue with the diesels is that the rubber motor mounts allow more movement than the plastic barrels can accommodate. :bigthink: