M18 remote oil filter lines
 

I working on a M18 that's in an 1811.

Attachment 114395

It looks like the PO cut one of the crimps off of one of the hoses and installed 2 hose clamps. Oil is everywhere and it looks like one of the hoses is leaking.

I'm thinking of doing this unless someone has a better fix and not spending $100.

1 -- Cutting the steel line close to the hose crimp.
2 -- Silver solder this fitting to the steel line. I haven't checked the OD of the steel line yet but something that will fit inside of the NPT side of the JIC.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...9-2404-6-6.axd

3 -- Use a JIC-6 at the filter block like this.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...9-2404-6-4.axd

4 -- Then I can just use 2 hoses like this to connect the filter block to the engine.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands...s-930-2224.axd

All this is probably less than $30.

Or is there an easier way?

TIA

I was actually thinking about starting a topic for options on these oil lines. I've got a leaky set on an 1872 I need to get corrected.

If you’re going to be soldering anyway, you could just use a barbed fitting of the right size and cut it in half or less. You can also get crimps that are a lot nicer looking than hose clamps.

Todd you can use Aeroquip Versil Flareless fittings but you'll need a hose with a JIC male end.

https://www.eatonpowersource.com/aer.../tube-fittings

If you had enough length of tube before the bend you could do the flare and tube nut like the hydro lines. If the steel tube is 3/8" I have some of the flare less fittings, let me know if you need them. I just did a steel tube to Aeroquip Aeroquip FC300-6 hose for a power steering line on a Jeep.

Here is some more info on the Versil Flareless fittings. I've used these on the hydro lines where they like to break at the pump connection.

Those look nice Sam. I have a few machines that have the lines destroyed at the pump because of drive shaft failure or PO jury rigging. I need to look into those. Where do you get yours from?

I've used Parker jic fittings and bent up new lines.
Then no worries about a broken fitting/line taking out good engine

What is the OD of the steel line? If it’s 3/8” then you can rescue a nut and adapter from an old Hydro.

Since it’s low pressure, you could get away with using a JIC nut and tube adapter and do a single flare with the standard brake line type tool. You can force that flare to the 37 degree contour of the male JIC on the new hose. Use a little grease on the nut and tube to prevent galling.

Todd I got my parts from https://hosewarehouse.com/

I have also run -04 braided PTFE lines that you can cut to length and install fittings on. Easy to work with and not too expensive. Since this system only sees 60psi, there is not really a need for something like hydraulic hose for pressure concerns.

I have removed the steel tube portion altogether, installed (2) 02 NPT X 04 JIC straight adapters at the oil filter adapter plate and (2) 04 NPT X 04 JIC straight adapters at the filter housing. I installed straight JIC fittings on the hose ends near the engine, and 90 degree JIC fittings on the oil filter side. Some new rubber grommets on the tins help keep airflow moving across the head.

-04 line is technically smaller than the factory -05, but we aren't talking about a high flow system, and since it all is passing through by the -02 NPT fittings that are installed from the factory at the oil filter adapter, the -04 lines aren't really the restriction in the system anyway at the short runs required.

It's not the most elegant solution but it works.