LT1045 will not crank
 

I've had an intermittent issue where my LT1045 will not turn over. As in not even make a cranking noise at all. In the past, when it happened, I would go through a ridiculous series of pushing brake in, pulling in and out PTO switch, etc, and finally get it to start cranking, but right now thats not even working. The starter solenoid is good I think. I pulled the small red wire going to solenoid off and tested voltage to that wire when the ignition is turned, and its only 10.3 volts. I think thats my problem. As a test, i hooked a wire directly from the positive side of the battery to that same terminal that the small red wire was plugged in to on the solenoid, and it started cranking. (I tested voltage on my bypass wire and it was 12.5 volts). So as I said, I think my problem is that the wire going to the solenoid should be 12.5, but its only 10. Is this an ignition switch problem? Or something else? I'm not sure where that small wire comes from. I'm having trouble tracing it back. Thanks for the help.

First, welcome to OCC........ :Welcome2:

Next, there were many versions of the LT1045. There should be a tag with the Factory Code and Serial Number. On that tag, there is a number that starts with 13XXXXXXX. What is that "13" number ??
:bigthink:

13AX11CH056. I assume this is it, I found it under the seat.

Yup, that is it.

In looking at the Wiring Diagram, it looks like you have to (a) sit in the seat, (b) depress the brake pedal, and (c) have the PTO switch in the off position. Is that being accomplished ??

:bigthink:

Yes, for 100% sure. I've had this mower for a little over 10 years. It started acting up in this way about 2 years ago, and as i mentioned, pulling out the pto switch / pushing it back in and random pressing/releasing/repressing brake pedal used to fix it. (I never figured out what the magic combination was, if it was the PTO switch or brake pedal or maybe it wasnt even related to those, and was actually the ignition or something) So it was always just random on how many times i had to do it before it would start working. But eventually it would get to where i could crank it. But now its just to the point that nothing is helping. And I assumed maybe it was the solenoid, but in my troubleshooting today, the solenoid is good.

Power leaves the Ignition Switch from terminal S. Then goes to the Brake Switch (ORG & ORG/BLK wires. Then goes to the PTO Switch (ORG/BLK to ORG/WHT wires) then on to the Starter Solenoid.

You can use a DVM to follow this path, or use a Jumper Wire from the Battery (+) terminal and touch these points to see where you either loose or gain power.

:ThumbsUp:

Thanks! I'll troubleshoot more tomorrow. Maybe a stupid question, but how would I know what terminal S is?

The Ignition Switch has it's terminals Inked or Stamped on the back side. The S stands for Start. The S terminal has an Orange wire connected to it.

Thanks for the help! I traced it back to a bad ignition switch. Its not sending power on the orange wire. And with a jumper wire from the battery to the orange wire, it starts to crank. I ordered a new switch.

Good deal.

:IH Trusted Hand: