1810 44C Deck Bearings
 

Well after 37 years my idler pulley gave up the ghost. The spacer was frozen inside the idler and I pressed that out after some Deep Creep. Also found the idler spring broken. The spring was still in place under the bolt where it was supposed to be but I wiggled it out without much effort. That's probably gonna get a little of that custom fabrication and re-installed depending on the difficulty of sourcing a new spring. The bottom spindle bearing on the trim side was also heading on out. I found it stuck initially but turned by hand without much effort. I've found the bearings and races...one seal and needing another...the idler I haven't found yet but have only called the first source. The belts I've already acquired.

So what I wanna know...How difficult are those races to remove. I've seen people weld a bead around them so they come out easy. I can do that if necessary. I haven't attempted removal and they're not toast so they could ride on with a fresh set of bearings. I don't really trust that though.

If your deck uses the (set 2) type bearing the race is easy to remove. I just take a punch and drive it out from the opposite side while it's in my hand.

Thanks. I was debating whacking it with a punch but was worried it might have been frozen solid.

I would do all 3 spindles while your are in the process of repairing. They are easy to do. Here are the parts you will need.

Bearings are part# set 2 or LM11949/LM11910. You will need 6.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ti...l+bearing,1672

I have used these in the past without any problems.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28146943651...Bk9SR8jVzaGBYg

Seals, you will need a total 6. I have used these also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28101070415...Bk9SR5KwkaGBYg

The idler pulley bearing can also be replaced. Here is one I did on a 3240.

Drill the spot weld/rivets out with a 1/4" drill bit and separate the pulley and bearing. Drive out the bearing spacer and insert into the new bearing. My bearing was a 6203 double sealed but yours may be different. I then reassembled with (6) 1/4-20 bolts.
Attachment 112749 Attachment 112750 Attachment 112751

All of the deck parts you will need are readily available either from Cub Cadet or other sources.

Thanks for the replies. I found the bearings and one seal at my paint supplier. I own a small body shop. The other seal will be here tomorrow hopefully. I have the races in and idler pulley assembled. Got the oil changed and replaced the grease jerk I managed to shear off the front end. Snagged some 90° grease zerks for my Snapper zero turn. I guess a 90° zerk is too expensive when manufacturing or designing. Normally I'd do all three spindles. Since 1995 I've been caring for 2 properties here in NC. One is coastal and the other mid-state. Last August I finished caring long term for my mother who had dementia. Gonna sell the mid-state property and move full time down east. This may be my last summer riding the Cub. I'm conflicted though. I had to take the Snapper down east last week when I rescued the Cub. That zero turn didn't want anything to do with the ditch out front. Now I'll be hanging off the side of the Cub in that ditch but it will cut it. I'm debating cleats for that Snapper. Just let one go flat and watch.

Well I got the idler mated to my old spacer and installed. It was almost touching the deck and did touch with a little pressure applied. I've got my original idler split and the bearing out. Hoping I can score a bearing tomorrow.

6203 is a common alternator/generator front bearing if you chose to go auto parts route