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1864 Front wheel bearing
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I picked up 2 used wheels with new tires for my 1864 and when test fitting them I noticed one had a lot of play in and out on the spindle due to a space between the washer and the bearing.
The other wheel is very tight. My original wheel has some play, about half of the used wheel. Space between the washer and bearing is about .045" on the loose used wheel and about .028" on my original wheel. If the bearing is not tight on the spindle wouldn't that allow the inner race to spin on the spindle? Are these hardening marks on the spindle? I only have one flat washer whereas the parts diagram shows two. Is that simply the problem? Thanks. |
Those are normal wear marks on the axle, not case hardening.
Normally the wheel bearings roll easier than turning on the axle, so no problem. I'd just add a washer to reduce the end play of the wheel on the axle, if the bearing is ok.:bigthink: |
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I think it would have to be more of a shim washer with a 1" ID? Another washer wouldn't make a difference since the one shown bolts right up to the end of the spindle shaft. I'm also thinking there should a tiny amount of play otherwise when you tighten down the bolt, your would put too much pressure on the inner race. I appreciate the input, I'm just a bit confused since I have 3 wheels that all fit a bit different and a drawing that shows 2 washers. :bigthink: Since the one wheel with the most play seems to have questionable bearings, I may order a new pair and see how they fit. Thanks again. |
I wouldn't worry about the clearance that you show in the pic. These are ball bearings not tapered roller bearing so don't go and preload them like a car wheel bearing or you will cause them to fail. As far as the diagram showing 2 washers and on large washer, I've only seen one washer that holds the wheel on and a larger diameter washer that holds the plastic hub cap on. :beerchug:
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It just seems the clearance on the one shown causes excessive play in and out on the spindle compared to the other two wheels. I follow you on not preloading them like a car wheel bearing. :ThumbsUp: I'm pretty sure I was the first person to remove the front wheels on my tractor and only found one washer and the large diameter washer to hold on the hub cap. I don't see any purpose for 2 washers? Thanks again. |
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New Lutco Made in USA OEM bearings purchased and installed. :ThumbsUp:
No clearance and excessive play. Nice and smoooooth. Now onto the next issue, The new bearing inner race extends beyond the end of the spindle. No way to tighten down the bolt without ruining the new bearings. Time for shim washers. |
Make a short spacer/washer with the outside diameter of the spindle shaft and the inside diameter of the bolt, and thick enough to allow you to tighten the bolt without binding the bearing.
You will still use the larger washer under the head of the bolt to keep the wheel on the shaft. :beerchug: BTDT |
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I had the same issue on one of my 1641's. I didn't have a set of Cub wheels so I used a set of JD wheels, the hub is about 1/4" longer on the JD wheels so I had my local machine shop make me a set of spacers. You can adjust the 1/4" dimension to suit your needs. You can also use washers as was mentioned. McMaster sells 1" OD X 1/2" ID washers.
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I have a friend who offered to make me some SS washers to fit. I need to see about what thickness I need and go from there. Sure would like to know how these wheels were installed at the factory. :bigthink: |
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Really odd that they would use a bearing with an inner race that extends beyond the face of the bearing. :bigthink: The original design and assembly documentation would be interesting to see. I found the service manual but in the wheel section regarding installing the wheel, it basically says Install wheel :biggrin2: The bolt that attaches the wheel is also referred to a Patch Bolt in the parts drawing. That's a new one to me. |
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