782D fun
 

So I purchased this 782D 5 years + ago and stuffed it in the ole chicken barn, then I tore that down years ago and it has been sitting outside along with many other machines.:Sorry:
Attachment 111926

It's mostly all there except for the right side panel and hood hinges.

I start looking things over and I notice that the engine stop lever doesn't move to the stop location. It feels like something is frozen up. It's the one the screwdriver is pointing to.
Attachment 111927

I watched a few vid's on Youtube so now I'm an expert and it shows with all my Harbor Freight tools.:biggrin2:

I pulled the injection pump and found 2 of the 3 pump elements stuck.
Attachment 111928 Attachment 111930Attachment 111931

The reason they were stuck is because the plunger (right side part) in the 2nd pic gets stuck in the cylinder causing no fuel to be compressed. Probably from getting gummed up. They were stuck pretty good and I had to lightly tap them out.
Attachment 111932 Attachment 111933

I got all 3 pump elements cleaned and reassembled (pretty easy job). My question I have now is on the timing of the injectors? The (what I call barrels) cannot be removed to replace the O rings because they have tamper proof Torx screws filled with solder so they were not touched. I did not change anything and I see how it can be checked and I will do that. Is this something that should be a concern?
Attachment 111934

So after I did all the above work I left the injector lines off to see if the pump was working and guess what????? The freaking starter won't engage the flywheel.:bash2:

The starter cannot be removed unless you cut the mounting plate (from what I could tell) so now I gotta pull the engine and remove the motor mount.:buttrock: Heck Ya, more work!

Maybe build another chicken coop??:Huh:

There is a more barbaric way. Since I strongly feel the OEM starter is mediocre from the beginning, I smashed the nose cone off the old original starter, and installed a much more effective gear reduction unit. Obviously, a hole will need to be made in the mount to clear the battery cable lug on the gear reduction unit.

Thanks 1711. Ya, I did the GR starter and GP upgrade on my 882 and it makes a world of difference. I purchased by accident about 10 years ago a non GR starter that has been on the shelf since then so I will put it on and see if the engine even runs. This one may go on down the road. Time to thin the heard.:biggrin2:

As long as you don't move those other bolts it should stay balanced. The pump shop loosens those and rotates the barrels to balance the cylinders together. It has to be on a calibration machine to do that though.

Update...

I got the injector pump back together, installed and bled. This was pretty simple, don't be intimidated.

Replaced the glow plugs with NGK 2031 (Y-103V).

Installed new China gear reduction starter.

Brazed the leaking radiator.

Engine starts and runs great.:beerchug:

After 2-3 minutes of running, it is in the overheating range on the gauge.:angry:

When I pulled this into the shop I drained what little antifreeze was in it. I then pulled the radiator off for repair, pulled the hoses and flushed both of those and the block with a hose. I got a lot of nasty rust out of the block. Look how this lower hose was clogged with rust and crap.
Attachment 112055
The bypass nipple on the water pump was clogged also. Then I found the thermostat was missing. Now I'm pretty sure the PO had an overheating issue too.

Here is where I'm at now. Even with no thermostat in, it still over heats. It's almost like I'm not getting enough flow through the engine. The water on top of the radiator was only around 105 but the gauge was almost to the far right.

I ordered a new "el-cheapo" water pump for some testing to see if my existing impeller has corrosion causing poor flow.(I doubt that is the issue)
https://www.amazon.com/AULINK-15534-...ps%2C97&sr=8-7

I'm also thinking about adding some of this to the cooling system to see if it will help.
https://www.evapo-rust.com/crc-thermocure/

Do any of y'all have any suggestions? TIA

If that hose was clogged with crap like that, the water jacket/passages in the block might be partially/fully blocked too. Wondering if the water pump impeller is intact/turning properly? Sounds like a circulation issue.

Thanks 1711. I pulled the pump when I flushed the block and everything looked normal. I tried to use a small piece of wire to try and clean the impeller but maybe I didn't do it good enough.

I pulled the upper hose off of the radiator, ran that to a bucket and ran the engine keeping the radiator full of water. It did pump some water into the bucket but I just don't see much if any flow hooked up normal. I was also thinking partial blockage in the coolant passages too.

Can you back flush with a garden hose? Alternating flow direction may dislodge some of the bigger chunks. If you pull the pump can you get a snake in while flushing? Often motors will have plugged or are blanked ports that were for auxiliary flow to heaters or forced fluid block heaters

That much scale in the hose would definitely indicate plugged jackets.