124 Clutch work - Need Parts
 

My 124 has been sitting in the garage in various stages of repair stemming from a shattered throw-out bearing. I ended up sourcing that bearing last year and with the kids sports schedule I have done very little. I ended up pulling the motor completely out of the tractor to try and get at these damn roll pins and after a long while of messing with them, I managed to get the second one out today.

So I pull what's left of the bearing off and it looks like the shaft is tapered. My understanding is that these are straight shafts so it has worn that way and now I need to replace the entire shaft. No idea how I am going to get the roll pin out of the back considering how hard the fronts were.

I need to source the following parts;
1- Drive Shaft (tapered after the left "rear" pin hole as shown)
2- Teaser Spring - Split in two
3- New roll pins? Can these be reused?

Here a how to rebuild your clutch:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=54233

It is in the the tech section part of this site.
It will show you the different parts and tools needed to rebuild a clutch assembly. It also show different parts suppliers to help save some money.

I do rebuild clutches for narrow, wide frame and Quiet line IH Cub Cadets.

No special tools req'd.
All you need is a brass drift, a good vise and something to protect the shaft from the vise jaws, like a couple blocks of hard wood or 2 small pieces of 1/4" or so thick aluminum.

You should reface the clutch plates as well and inspect the bushing in the 3 pin driver for wear while you have things apart.

CSS will have all the parts you need.
Be sure to follow the instructions in the FSM for reassembly and adjustment once the ass'y is back in the tractor.
Do it right and do it once.

I am more comfortable rebuilding this clutch and will try to find the links for the shaft, teaser and roll pins if needed. I dont think the service manual indicates what we can re-use or not.

The part I dont understand is how to get this roll pin out of the rear of the shaft. It is not as easy as using a punch. These things are welded in there with no leverage from under the tractor, I dont know how I cam going to get this out. Aside from hanging the tractor in the tree like another member.

CCS, Cub Cadet Specialties, up top, here on this page, red, white & blue box

Attachment 111756

Got some time in the garage and was able to flip the tractor vertical to get a better angle on the rear driveshaft collar. Also ordered a 7” roll pin air hammer punch and that made a big difference. Got everything off and want to start building it back up. The assembly calls for a flat washer on both sides of the compression spring. I only have one so I guess I will get another. The replacement throwout bearing that I got here was longer than the original but everyone here said it would be better.

Don’t have a press so will have to ask around to find away to get the spring compressed!

From the manual on how to compress the spring. I have used this method and it works well:

So this is saying only one spring and that is behind the load spring and resting against the middle coil pin. Actually this is calling for a busing and spring spacer. Not what I show.

Starting from Rear. 1) flat washer, load spring, Bearing, lever, teaser..... The manual I have says otherwise thus the confusion. There are also Narrow Frame Diagrams on the forum that show no washers on either side.

The wide frame clutch setup is not the same as a NF. Use the NF diagram.