Ammeter showing - (Need some advice)
 

I made a post a few days ago with no replies, here we go again. I short circuited my VR on accident, and it fried something in the ignition system and didn’t click or turn over. I refurbished the harness that had many poorly executed patch jobs, I replaced the PTO safety switch, solenoid, ammeter (was corroded inside) with parts in storage and bypassed the NSS. The brushes were worn in the starter so I swapped another starter that’s never been used on there. After all that, it cranked and ran fine. I’m almost positive it is wired correctly. Polarized the regulator, no charge. I did the S/G test to the field terminal, and it started charging so the regulator is bad of course. When I let go of the field terminal to the hot side of the battery, the ammeter jumped to the D (negative) side and would return to neutral when given throttle.

When i went to cut it off, the starter continued to turn and it would only stop turning after removing the BAT terminal wire off the regulator. After a couple minutes, hooked the wire back on, didn’t turn on its own, and turned the key and ran again with no charge. The starter ONLY runs constantly when it is jumped from the field terminal to the hot side of the battery, and I believe that one time when i put my hand on the regulator it felt like it was clicking inside. This one has me really lost, and I’m hesitant to install a new regulator just for it to fry itself due to another issue in the charging system. I need some educated opinions and i’m sortof desperate since this is my 2nd post on the matter.

Your tractor is NOT wired correctly.

As stated before, go to the Technical Library Section, page #5, under WF Diagrams and download the Wiring Diagram for your model. Follow, trace down, wire by wire, and MAKE SURE, your tractor is wired "exactly" as the diagram indicates.

:IH Trusted Hand:

It may come as a surprise but I have ensured many times that it is wired correctly. I have sanded every contact down and checked continuity to every last wire. I replaced the brushes in the worn generator and inspected the new one and both seem to do the same thing.

Something is not right.

:bigthink:

Sounds like the cutout contact in the regulator is sticking

I was under the impression, that the V/R was replaced.

:bigthink:

No, I wanted some input from you guys before I ordered one. I’m bringing my cub to a buddy’s house and taking a brand new regulator off his cub Lo-Boy and see if it magically fixes my problems

Better cross reference the part numbers and be sure they are the same, that his is the same number as what is supposed to be on yours.

I know they are not compatible, both of yuse will be outta luck... open up your regulator and clean the contacts, take pics for us.

What you are describing happens when the heavier wired spool inside the voltage regulator contacts come together with the engine not running. My guess is they are welded together inside causing your issue.