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Small engine fuel strategy
I've heard it said that "95% of small engine failure to run problems are fuel problems". In my humble experience that's right (the next 4% can be fixed with a quick clean of the points, and everything else fits in the remaining 1%).
My new philosophy when I'm not going to be using an engine (other than my diesel) is to turn the fuel valve off, then run the bowl dry. At "end of season" I'll drain the tank too. Anyone see any downside to this strategy? I am sure I'd end up spending less time doing this, than in replacing/rebuilding/cleaning fuel systems corrupted by old gasoline sitting for months. Even with the economic policy of the current regime, gas is cheaper than carburetors. |
Either that or run the engines once in a while during off season.
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I like to start them up once or twice during the winter and let them run for 20 mins. Also, if you can buy it in your area, go with the non-ethanol fuel.
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Non-ethanol strategy here. Not sure what your local climate is but an empty fuel tank can potentially condensate.
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That's a good point. I use 100% gas too.
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I use 100% gas. Do not drain anything.
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I use "Rec 90" (no ethanol). I don't drain or run dry anything.
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Non-ethanol here too.
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Most of my smaller engines like lawn mowers , weed whackers etc. I run
dry. Especially 2 cycle stuff. My cubs I try to run occasionally through the winter. For the most part they sit in the unheated side of the shop. I pull the batteries. I too think a bit about condensation. Usually don't leave the metal tanks empty. Run the expensive er gas here, it's worth it. Ken |
Rather than deal with running stuff dry and/or draining tanks, I go the route of running stuff throughout the winter. Granted most of my equipment doesn't ever really go into any sort of storage over winter, other than the push mowers and all the little antique small engines I've managed to collect.
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