Cub cadet 2523 runs but no-go
 

I bought a 2523 Cub Cadet from a friend of mine a week ago. 200 hours and in nice shape. Runs really smooth and has lots of power. Handles the 54” deck with ease. I’m mowing with it and go into reverse to turn around and when I pedal forward something popped and it won’t go forward or reverse. The release at the back will not move the release valve at all and it has no brakes. Linkages are all hooked up so it’s got to be internal. There’s also about 1/4-1/2” play in the rear wheels or axles sliding in and out. I’m a little skidding about tearing into this unit but I really don’t want to have to pay the $75 an hour to the dealer. And I’m not dealing with any shade tree repair shops. Any idea what this might be? And if it us a stuck relief valve how can I diagnose it?

If you don't have any brakes sounds like something broke in the rear differential. That tractor has the brake on the differential not on the axles. Time to take the fender pan off the tractor and have a good look around.

I'm betting that the 4 bolts on the ring ear took a dump, number 7 in this pic

I’ve taken the fender pan off and like I said there’s nothing out of place that the eye can see.

Looks catastrophic to me. Thanks for the info. I’ll research this and see what I’m lookin at.

You find a donor tractor and get the rear from it.

The rear differential is not real complicated inside and new and used parts are readily available to fix it. Do you hear clunking or grinding when you turn the rear wheels by hand? If so, time to split it apart and see what broke. You can download the 2000 series 2011 and after service manual here that describes removing and disassembling the rear differential.

https://www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cadet-service-manuals

There’s not a clunking sound but more like a clicking sound where 2 gears are touching but not locked. And that’s very quiet. For the most part it rolls very smooth with lil to no resistance. If the 4 bolts are sheared off at the ring gear inside the housing itlloks like it would be fairly simple to remove the axle and 14 bolts holding that side on. I would assume then there would be the fix to the ring gear. I’m going to search on the internet or you tube for videos and looks at the manual for procedure for disassembly. I’m more leaning now towards doing this myself. Worse case is it’s messed up bad enough to find a used unit. Or scrap the damn thing and use the engine to report my 1812 in the future. Which has 1700 hrs on her.

You say it moves with little to no resistance and you can't engage the hydro release valve. That being said tells me the mechanical connection to the transmission is broken. Even with the release valve engaged there should be some resistance to moving it.

The driveshaft turns freely when the mower is running. If you push the pedal forward or reverse you can hear the pump pumping and hydraulic motor turning. But doesn’t even try to move. Except when it’s jacked up off the ground and then the wheels will move but can easily stop them with your hand. The release lever won’t move from its position. Which seems to be in the middle between engaged and disengaged. The brakes will not engage on the rotor either. So it’s not trying to stop the axle.