'62 Original-ish not starting
 

Good evening gentlemen,

I have what is mostly a 1962 Original that does not start. I've currently replaced the ignition switch, push button start switch, has a new battery and a used S/G. I've also replaced the spark plug, condenser, points, and a new wiring harness. Most of these were replaced due to the fact that they were missing, plug points and condenser due to condition and age. Pretty sure my ground is good.

Let me start by saying I've always avoided electrical work on any classic car, and this "O" is my first attempt, so be gentle and patient.

First, it does turn over with the push start, but it seems to do this with the key in both positions. Is that normal?

Second, I know my carb needs rebuilt due to the fact that gas just pours out and it probably needs a new float. I have a rebuild kit on order. In the mean time I do have starting fluid.

Third, the engine seems to have at least some compression, but I cannot find my gauge to give an exact number.

This being said, I know I need to test my coil, and my voltage regulator seems abused but fairly intact externally. I just don't seem to be getting spark. I know there's good info on the technical library, and I'm slowly going through that info. Great stuff there.

While I understand this is probably pretty basic for wiring, again, I hate wiring. But I'm here to learn.

Questions- Is there a simple way to test my coil and voltage regulator? Or should I be looking at starting somewhere else?

I'll try and add some pics here shortly, but my carb also has no springs, zero, just little green zip ties, and I'm fairly confident they're not factory. So not sure what I'm missing there. Also, no throttle or choke cables.

Thanks in advance!

Okay... between posting and doing some research I found this info for testing the coil

https://youtu.be/FIx4dxew_UU

and paired it with this thread: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

I should be able to test my coil. Mostly posting this for my own reference but thought I'd share the technical data with a video explanation of the test itself.

I also found this guy: https://youtu.be/vJWbfSxHY1Y

breaking down some wiring basics and testing. Most of you guys probably know this, but I found it helpful since I hate wiring (which I may have mentioned), and after an hour of Google searches I figured I'd share what I found so far.

The V/R has NOTHING to do with starting the engine. It provides voltage control to the battery, once the engine is running.

The first YouTube video is correct and accurate.

AS A TEST.....
Run a jumper wire from the Battery (+) positive post to the Ignition Coil (+) post. Try and start the engine, and see if you have spark. This assumes that the points and condenser are correctly installed on the (-) of the Ignition coil, and that you have proper engine grounding.

Report back with your findings.

UPDATE....

Fixed error.

You meant that you have a push button starter button with a separate on/off switch that is either a key or a toggle? That's fine..... All starter button does is turn engine over. The on/off switch is power to coil.

Good thing looking up test methods on the coil. However, have you determine that you have power to coil? You should have power to it when the key or toggle is switched on. We need to verify this before moving further along as to why you have no spark.

I also suggest you get control of the choke and throttle on carb when you rebuild it. It will be easier to start when you have choke and throttle in the position it needs to be in order to start.

When I don't have spark, the first thing I do is check the points. Clean them and set the gap.

R. Bedell:

My 100 will turn over if I push the start button with the key in the off position. The key switch is just cutting power to the coil, so it won't start. Is that not normal? The wiring diagram looks as though this should be the case. :confused:

You are correct. My bad, I was thinking of the key switch of a later model cub.

More than once I've thought my 100 was broken.....only to realize I hadn't turned the key on. :Duh:

OK, minor update.... set the points, tested the coil. points are good to go. Coil secondary tests on the high side out of range. Hit the push start and... nothing. No spark.

Jumped the coil from the battery to the coil and she turns over! Carb definitely needs rebuilt.

So I'm going to ask while I continue to troubleshoot on my own, but I suspect it would have to do with the keyed on/off. This is where I have questions.

The black wire from the keyed switch goes to the + terminal on my coil. Green wire goes to the "L" terminal on the voltage regulator. If the VR does not have anything to do with the starting, what is the green wire doing on the "L" terminal?

I'm going to pull and test the key switch next, but I'm open to any thoughts as to where to take this next. I feel like I'm getting close to a running engine.

Update #2

Jumped the coil while in gear and got it around the yard in 1st. Probably doing something bad, but it felt like a minor success. Still not sure why no power going to the coil. Key seems to make no difference, unless it's in the wiring, but this is a brand new Brillman wiring harness.

I did want to see if my battery was charging while running but forgot.

Okay, I'm stuck. Here's where I'm at-

Engine turns over with button, no spark. jumped the key switch, same thing.

Jump from battery to coil, all good. While running S/G seems to be slowly charging battery. Remove jumper, dies.

Should my yellow wire from the field on the S/G be sending current to the VR?

And the green wire from the VR should be carrying current to the switch, then power to black wire to coil?