Starter/Generator keeps burning out
 

Hello folks,

If there is one thing I hate, it's working on electrical. I'm not good with it. I don't generally understand it and it's the expensive problem I'm having right now. You may find a post for a HICC 126 in the "for sale" forum shortly, but here it goes...

Was running until a week ago when I fried the field coil in the S/G. Turned the key, she spun a couple times then a small wisp of smoke from the S/G and all I could hear was a buzz from the solenoid when I turned the key.

Not being an electrical genius I said to myself, "Self, lets replace the solenoid and see what happens." Well I did and nothing happened accept a much more assertive clacking was coming from the brand new solenoid. So I took the S/G off and 'bench tested' it with jumper cables. I ground the battery to the S/G and put the positive to the 'A' terminal. Got a spark or two but nothing else. So I figured, "Yep the S/G is broke, that's weird. No bother I'll go to the shop that specializes in these types of things." http://www.woodstockrebuilding.com/

Repair shop confirmed it was the field coil fried and said "its not common but happens" and he gave me a referbed S/G to replace it. So I went on my merry way. I installed it, turned the key, was so happy to see it spin up and then just as the machine was about to start, this one died as well. Like the last one, it spun for a few seconds then just stopped, except I did not see a wisp of smoke coming from the S/G this time. But it was hot.

No repair shop around me will touch my machine because of it's age and the symptoms. So, I've researched and researched and watched umpteen YouTube videos trying to help diagnose what this could be and I'm not confident enough to know where to start. I'm good with small engines, just terribly baffled by the electrical.

"Help me Onlycubcadets.net. Your my only hope." Otherwise, you'll see a non-running HICC 126 posted for sale on this forum very shortly.

IF..................you bought a "Refurbished" S/G and it is wired correctly, why won't the seller of that S/G warranty it..??

:bigthink:

The first S/G that blew was the not the original on my machine. My original had a broken winding that someone tried to solder in place and was shorting out. So I went to him and got a 'referb.' I was running great for 3 months then that's where our story picks up. He did warranty the S/G and gave me a replacement S/G no charge. Then that fried too. So the tractor has 'technically' been threw 3 S/G's. I don't think it's his product.

Thanks tho for looking out, but this is probably operator error. No idea what has happened.

Then the tractor is not wired correctly or properly.

I agree, just strange it would suddenly not be wired right. Is there a way I can do the work and test if it is correct before hooking up a 3rd s/g? I don't want to mercilessly fry anymore of them? ?

Go to the Technical Library Section, and go to page #5. Down load the wiring diagram for your model of tractor. Trace each wire down as per the diagram, and make sure the wire is good, and each end is clean, bright, and tight.

That is the best I can offer you.

Perhaps your harness developed a short. The short may not be present all the times. A break in the harness may only be shorting intermittently.

If you are as baffled by electrical work as you say, and the wires look pretty well beat up, you might consider replacing the entire harness. Several suppliers make brand new replacements that use the exact colors of wires and the same connectors as originally came on your tractor.

You might just gain some new understanding about your machine and which wire does what. I bet you would stop burning up S/G's.

Picked up one a couple years ago with a melted S/G and the only thing I found was the PO used a 4 terminal voltage reg and layed the wires on the wrong terminals, replaced the S/G and straightened out the wires and all was good ?

Yep, replacement voltage regulators are commonly reconnected incorrectly.