1450 Hydraulic Line Break - Need Advice
 

Hello all,

I posted several months ago that my 1450 had developed a significant leak and that I believed it to be in the vicinity of the pump. After receiving excellent advice, I tore it all apart, split the tractor, replaced the front seal on the pump and the cork gasket between the pump and transaxle. (I had already confirmed the leak was not coming from the relief valves). I replaced many other gaskets and worn parts while I had it apart, and today I completed reassembly and attempted to drive it out of my garage.

As it turns out, all of the above was probably unnecessary as anything other than a learning exercise. Apparently in re-tightening one of the hydraulic hard lines to the pump, I must have aggravated the leak to the point where I can now see fluid gushing out of the break in the line when I start the tractor. I guess it went from a pin-hole to a tear.

My questions are these:

Can I disconnect both of these lines, cap each hole at the pump, and operate the tractor as normal save for having a hydraulic lift? I don't use it for mowing. It mainly serves as a work horse to pull a large garden cart around my property for various chores.

Second, because I would like the lift this winter for my snow blade - what is the easiest way to replace this line? Should I get new steel tubing and a bender and whatever else is necessary to flare the ends, etc? Or should I replace with flexible hydraulic lines?

I have limited experience with hydraulics, but I'm willing to learn. I'll admit that I'm feeling a little disheartened at the moment, and I'd appreciate any and all advice.

I've attached a picture of the offending line with an arrow pointing to the leak/tear.

Thank you all!

Might be possible to replace a section of pipe with a union. It needs to be appropriate for the hydraulic pressure.

Best to look for a used line as a replacement.
If you disconnect the lines you will have to have a jumper line to reconnect the ports back together.

Making/bending a new line on your own would be very difficult due to the tight bends in the lines so close to the fittings and probably requires special equipment to produce bends this tight with the fittings in place.

You may be able to replicate the S curve in the line line using elbows etc and splice back into the remaining tube where it is straight using a compression fittimng But beware of the clearance needed for the driveshaft fan.

Here go....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27451626976...IAAOSwjsBfdbvj

Am wondering if you couldn't take it off and head for a tractor place,
anyone selling and working on them. They could possibly duplicate it
for you. If not it looks like 30 dollars would be a good start to get you
back up and going.

Ken

Where are you in PA? I've got some here at Brookville, PA, I'd sell.

I'm in north Pittsburgh, but I could see my way up there happily if you have the line I need. It doesn't look like the ones on ebay will work - the one I need is the one with the flashlight pointing at it below...

Let me know, thanks!

So I've decided to purchase a cheap 37-degree flaring tool and a roll of 3/8" nickel-copper brake line to replicate this tube myself. I've done some research and it seems like this sort of line should take the pressure just fine and I should basically be able to bend it by hand. If anyone has any advice and/or thinks this is a terrible idea before I get started, I'd be happy to hear it. Otherwise, I'll update on my progress this weekend.

I believe the tubes need to be double flared
Good luck with that "cheap" tool.

I believe you'll need the proper bending tools to avoid kinking the tubes. You might not be able to accomplish as tight as the bends in the original part but you should be able to route A-B destination.